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A32    FEATURE
                   Wednesday 27 June 2018

            Tracing Nelson Mandela's footsteps 100 years after his birth



            By CHARMAINE NORONHA                                                                                                morial and Museum tell the
            QUNU,  South  Africa  (AP)                                                                                          story  of  the  1976  Soweto
            —  July  18  marks  100  years                                                                                      riots.  Hector  was  12  when
            since  the  birth  of  Nelson                                                                                       he  was  shot  and  killed  by
            Mandela, who died in 2013.                                                                                          police firing on student pro-
            Visitors  can  follow  in  Man-                                                                                     testers.  A  famous  photo
            dela's  footsteps  from  the                                                                                        shows  his  limp  body  be-
            villages where he was born                                                                                          ing  carried  as  his  sister  ran
            and  raised,  to  the  Soweto                                                                                       alongside.  Some  accounts
            township  where  he  be-                                                                                            say  hundreds  died  during
            came  an  anti-apartheid                                                                                            the  protests.  The  museum
            leader,  to  Robben  Island                                                                                         contains  a  heart-wrench-
            where  he  was  imprisoned                                                                                          ing  and  moving  collection
            for years.                                                                                                          of  oral  testimonies,  large-
            THE EASTERN CAPE                                                                                                    scale  photos,  audiovisual
            "When Mandela was just a                                                                                            displays and historical doc-
            child,  he  walked  for  miles                                                                                      uments about the uprising.
            on  this  route,  moving  from                                                                                      A  drive  north  takes  you  to
            one village to another," said                                                                                       Liliesleaf,  in  the  suburb  of
            tour guide Velile Ndlumbini                                                                                         Rivonia.  This  farm-turned-
            as  we  drove  through  the                                                                                         museum,  once  owned  by
            picturesque  green  rolling                                                                                         South  African  Communist
            hills of the Eastern Cape.                                                                                          Party member Arthur Gold-
            The  homestead  where  he                                                                                           reich, was used in the 1960s
            was  born  can  be  seen  in                                                                                        as  a  secret  hideout  for
            the small village of Mvezo.                                                                                         Mandela  and  other  activ-
            He  lived  here  until  age  2,                                                                                     ists on the run from police.
            when his father lost his posi-  In this Oct. 6, 2007, file photo, former South African President Nelson Mandela reacts after a meet-  The  famous  Rivonia  Trial
            tion as village chief in a dis-  ing at the Nelson Mandela Foundation in Johannesburg, South Africa.                ended  with  Mandela  and
            pute with a magistrate.                                                                            Associated Press  his  comrades  sentenced
            The  family  then  moved  to                                                                                        to life in prison on Robben
            neighboring  Qunu,  where  there along the N2 highway  icon  of  anti-apartheid  ac-   has  also  been  converted  Island.
            Mandela lived until age 9,  for  his  family,  where  some  tivism, an African nationalist  into  a  museum.  But  the  ROBBEN ISLAND
            when  his  father  died.  He  still  live,  and  he  moved  and a leader of the grass-  most exhaustive and heart-  A 45-minute ferry ride from
            and his mother then moved  back to Qunu himself after  roots  Black  Consciousness  breaking  site  is  the  Apart-  Cape Town, Robben Island
            19  kilometers  (12  miles)  retiring from public life.   Movement.  He was a ma-      heid Museum. The entrance  is  where  Mandela  spent
            away to Mqhekezweni.         Dusty roads lead to his pri-  jor  influence  on  Mandela,  is  divided  into  "blankes/  18  years  of  his  27  years  in
            Here  he  was  adopted  by  vate grave, across from his  and died in 1977 after be-    whites"  and  "nie-blankes/  prison,  beginning  in  1964,
            the acting regent king and  family's burial site.         ing arrested and beaten.     non-whites,"  followed  by  a  alongside  other  heroes  of
            groomed  for  leadership.  Qunu  also  houses  the  Nel-  In  neighboring  Mandela  display of "passes" that the  the  movement  like  Sisulu
            Mandela wrote in his auto-   son   Mandela     Museum,  Bay in Port Elizabeth, an in-  black  population  was  re-  and Govan Mbeki.
            biography,  "Long  Walk  to  which  opened  on  Feb.  stallation  called  Route  67  quired  to  carry,  restricting  The  most  powerful  part  of
            Freedom,"  that  his  interest  11,  2000,  the  10th  anni-  showcases 67 artworks sym-  their  movements.  The  mu-  the  tour,  led  by  a  former
            in politics was first kindled lis-  versary  of  his  release  from  bolizing Mandela's 67 years  seum details the white set-  prisoner, is a visit to Mande-
            tening to tribal elders hold-  prison.  It  takes  visitors  from  of service. The art, all by lo-  tlers' history in South Africa,  la's cell, a 7-by-9-foot (2-by-
            ing  community  meetings  his  childhood  through  his  cals, depicts significant mo-  the  beginnings  of  apart-  2.7-meter)  room.  Despite
            in  Mqhekezweni.  A  shady  involvement  in  politics  to  ments on the journey from  heid  and  daily  struggles  the humiliation and oppres-
            spot under a circle of gum  his  triumphant  election  as  apartheid  to  democracy,  blacks endured, along with  sion  of  his  years  here,  this
            trees, Ndlumbini said, is still  president.               moving from laser-cut steel  the  story  of  how  Mandela  was  also  where  he  honed
            used for that purpose.       Some  200  kilometers  (125  figures forming a voting line  transformed  the  African  his skills as a leader, negoti-
            It was Qunu where Mande-     miles)  south  lies  the  Steve  in  the  country's  first  demo-  National  Congress  into  a  ator and proselytizer, which
            la returned after 27 years in  Biko  Museum  in  King  Wil-  cratic  elections  in  1994,  mass political movement.  put him on the path to the
            prison.  He  built  a  complex  liam's  Town.  Biko  was  an  to  a  stairway  that  starts  in  The  Hector  Pieterson  Me-  presidency in 1994.q
                                                                      darkness  and  progresses
                                                                      to an era of color and new
                                                                      beginnings.
                                                                      SOWETO
                                                                      Created in the 1930s by the
                                                                      white  government  to  relo-
                                                                      cate the black population
                                                                      away  from  Johannesburg,
                                                                      Soweto  became  the  larg-
                                                                      est black city in South Afri-
                                                                      ca. Poverty was rampant in
                                                                      the  shanty  towns  and  civil
                                                                      unrest was common during
                                                                      apartheid.
                                                                      Mandela  lived  in  Soweto
            In  this  July  18,  2008,  file  photo,  tourists  take  photos  of  former   from 1946 to 1962 and met   In this Dec. 15, 2013, file photo, a young girl sits outside the Man-
            South  African  President  Nelson  Mandela's  cell  on  Robben  Is-  African  National  Congress   dela House Museum in the Soweto township, in Johannesburg,
            land, South Africa.                                       activist Walter Sisulu there.  South Africa.
                                                     Associated Press  Mandela's  Soweto  home                                              Associated Press
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