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A32    FEATURE
               Thursday 21 November 2019
            Botanists scour aging orchards for long-lost apple varieties




            By GILLIAN FLACCUS                                                                                                  base  lists  apples  including
            Associated Press                                                                                                    the  Shackleford,  the  Flush-
            PULLMAN, Wash. (AP) — The                                                                                           ing  Spitzenburg  and  the
            apple  tree  stands  alone                                                                                          Dickinson—  all  varieties  re-
            near  the  top  of  a  steep                                                                                        discovered by the project.
            hill, wind whipping through                                                                                         Apples  from  newly  discov-
            its  branches  as  a  perfect                                                                                       ered trees are placed in a
            sunset paints its leaves a vi-                                                                                      Ziploc  baggie  and  care-
            brant gold.                                                                                                         fully labeled with the tree's
            It has been there for more                                                                                          latitude and longitude and
            than  a  century,  and  there                                                                                       the  date  the  fruit  was  col-
            is no hint that the tree or its                                                                                     lected. The apples are then
            apples are anything out of                                                                                          shipped  to  the  Temper-
            the ordinary. But this scrag-                                                                                       ate  Orchard  Conservancy
            gly  specimen  produces                                                                                             more than 400 miles (640 ki-
            the Arkansas Beauty, a so-                                                                                          lometers)  away  in  Molalla,
            called  heritage  fruit  long                                                                                       Oregon, for identification.
            believed  to  be  extinct  un-                                                                                      There, experts work to iden-
            til amateur botanists in the                                                                                        tify  them  using  a  trove  of
            Pacific Northwest tracked it                                                                                        U.S.  Agriculture  Depart-
            down three years ago.                                                                                               ment  watercolors  and  old
            It's one of 13 long-lost apple                                                                                      textbooks.  Once  a  variety
            varieties rediscovered by a                                                                                         is  identified  as  "lost,"  the
            pair of retirees in the remote                                                                                      apple  detectives  return  to
            canyons, wind-swept fields                                                                                          the  field  to  take  cuttings
            and hidden ravines of what   In this Oct. 30, 2019, photo, Joanie Cooper, of the Temperate Orchard Conservancy, compares a   that  can  be  grafted  onto
            was once the Oregon Terri-   rare apple to a 1908 watercolor illustration of the same variety in a U.S. Department of Agriculture   root  stock  and  planted  in
            tory. E.J. Brandt and David   book, as she works in her lab in Molalla, Oregon.                                     the  conservancy's  vast  or-
            Benscoter,  who  together                                                                          Associated Press  chard, to be preserved for
            form  the  nonprofit  Lost  enjoy  what  our  forefathers                                                           future generations.
            Apple  Project,  log  count-  did."  Brandt  and  Bensco-                                                           The  trees  could  eventu-
            less hours and hundreds of  ter scour old county fair re-                                                           ally boost genetic diversity
            miles in trucks, on all-terrain  cords, newspaper clippings                                                         among modern-day apple
            vehicles and on foot to find  and  nursery  sales  ledgers                                                          crops  as  climate  change
            orchards  planted  by  set-  to  figure  out  which  vari-                                                          and  disease  take  an  in-
            tlers  as  they  pushed  west  eties  existed  in  the  area.                                                       creasing  toll,  said  Joanie
            more than a century ago.     Then they hunt them down,                                                              Cooper,  a  botanist  at  the
            The two are racing against  matching  written  records                                                              Temperate  Orchard  Con-
            time  to  preserve  a  slice  of  with  old  property  maps,                                                        servancy   who's   helped
            homesteader  history:  The  land deeds and sometimes                                                                identify  many  of  the  lost
            apple  trees  are  old,  and  the  memories  of  the  pio-                                                          varieties  found  in  northern
            many are dying. Others are  neers' great-grandchildren.                                                             Idaho  and  eastern  Wash-
            being  ripped  out  for  more  They  also  get  leads  from                                                         ington.
            wheat fields or housing de-  people  who  live  near  old                                                           She and two others found-
            velopments  for  a  growing  orchards.                    In this Oct. 28, 2019, photo, apples are shown in an orchard at a   ed  the  nonprofit  conser-
            population.                  The  task  is  huge.  North   remote homestead near Pullman, Wash.                     vancy  in  2011,  and  oper-
            "To me, this area is a gold-  America  once  had  17,000                                           Associated Press  ate it on a shoestring, after
            mine,"  said  Brandt,  who  named varieties of domes-     ner of the Pacific Northwest  FBI agent and an IRS crimi-  recognizing the need for a
            has  found  two  lost  variet-  ticated  apples,  but  only  alone. The Homestead Act  nal  investigator,  pursues  repository for rare fruit trees
            ies in the Idaho panhandle.  about  4,000  remain.  The  of 1862 gave 160 acres (65  leads  on  lost  apples  with  in the U.S. West.
            "I don't want it lost in time.  Lost Apple Project believes  hectares)  to  families  who  the  same  zeal  he  applied  "You  have  to  have  variet-
            I want to give back to the  settlers planted a few hun-   would  improve  the  land  to his criminal cases.         ies  that  can  last,  that  can
            people  so  that  they  can  dred  varieties  in  their  cor-  and  pay  a  small  fee,  and  In  one  instance,  he  found  grow,  produce  fruit,  sur-
                                                                      these  newcomers  planted  county  fair  records  that  vive  the  heat  and  maybe
                                                                      orchards  with  enough  va-  listed winners for every ap-  survive  the  cold  winter,
                                                                      riety  to  get  them  through  ple variety growing in Whit-  depending  on  where  you
                                                                      the long winter, with apples  man  County,  Washington,  are,"  Cooper  said.  "I  think
                                                                      that  ripened  from  early  from  1900  to  1910  —  an  that's  critical."  For  Bensco-
                                                                      spring  until  the  first  frosts.  invaluable  treasure  map.  ter  and  Brandt,  however,
                                                                      Then, as now, trees planted  In  another,  he  located  a  the  biggest  joy  comes  in
                                                                      for eating apples were not  descendant  of  a  home-      the hunt. Brandt, a Vietnam
                                                                      raised from seeds; cuttings  steader with a gigantic or-  veteran  and  passionate
                                                                      taken  from  existing  trees  chard  by  finding  a  family  historian, last year found a
                                                                      were  grafted  onto  a  ge-  history she posted online.   homestead near Troy, Ida-
                                                                      neric root stock and raised  Once  he  discovers  a  for-  ho, by matching names on
                                                                      to  maturity.  These  cloned  gotten  orchard,  Benscoter  receipts from a nursery led-
                                                                      trees  remove  the  genetic  spends  hours  mapping  it.  ger with old property maps.
                                                                      variation  that  often  makes  He has pages of diagrams  Three    wind-bent   apple
                                                                      "wild" apples inedible — so-  with  a  tiny  circle  denoting  trees  neatly  spaced  along
            In this Oct. 28, 2019, photo, amateur botanist David Benscoter,   called "spitters."   each tree, with GPS coordi-  the  edge  of  a  wheat  field
            of The Lost Apple Project, examines an apple as he works in an   Benscoter,  who  retired  in  nates alongside each dot.  were  all  that  remained  of
            orchard near Pullman, Wash.                               2006  after  a  career  as  an  A  lengthy  computer  data-
                                                     Associated Press                                                           the orchard.q
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