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A32    FEATURE
                       Friday 25 May 2018
            Then and now: France's World War I battle-scape




            By LAURENT REBOURS                                                                                                  Just  a  week  before  the
            Associated Press                                                                                                    Nov.  11,  1918,  armistice
            PARIS  (AP)  —  U.S.  troops                                                                                        that  ended  the  war,  hun-
            fighting  in  France  in  World                                                                                     dreds  of  American  supply
            War  I  found  a  landscape                                                                                         trucks  rumbled  through  a
            ravaged by trench warfare                                                                                           muddy street in Beauclair.
            and  chemical  weapons,                                                                                             Today  cars  ride  along  its
            churches gutted by bombs                                                                                            asphalt, past a monument
            and used as makeshift hos-                                                                                          to  villagers  lost  in  what's
            pitals,  and  villages  turned                                                                                      known  in  France  as  the
            into military prisons.                                                                                              "Guerre  du  14-18,"  or  "the
            A  century  later,  those                                                                                           War of 1914-1918."
            same verdant fields, rebuilt                                                                                        Every village here has such
            churches and quaint villag-                                                                                         a monument, the names of
            es  greet  American  tourists                                                                                       the dead etched in memo-
            and  other  world  travelers,                                                                                       riam.
            showing  barely  a  trace  of                                                                                       American    military   engi-
            what they endured.                                                                                                  neers  crisscrossed  northern
            The  Associated  Press  has                                                                                         France  to  rebuild  bridges,
            revisited sites across the for-                                                                                     roads  and  other  essen-
            mer  Western  Front  as  the                                                                                        tial  infrastructure,  some  of
            U.S.  commemorates  fallen                                                                                          which still stands.
            soldiers  on  Memorial  Day,                                                                                        Some  details  are  gone,
            and  Europe  prepares  to                                                                                           however.  The  well  where
            mark  100  years  since  the                                                                                        German  prisoners  drew
            war's  end.  The  AP  looked                                                                                        water  in  Pierrefitte-sur-Aire,
            afresh at scenes from 1918                                                                                          watched over by an Ameri-
            in  the  Ardennes,  Somme,                                                                                          can soldier, is now covered
            Argonne  and  Meuse  re-                                                                                            in pavement.
            gions,  captured  in  images                                                                                        On the day of the armistice,
            held in the archives of the                                                                                         American soldiers celebrat-
            U.S.  National  World  War  I                                                                                       ed  victory  with  war-weary
            Museum and Memorial.                                                                                                villagers  in  Stenay.  Today,
            The Americans arrived late   This combo of two photographs shows; at left, Estella Margaret Kendall at the grave of her son,   children  run  carefree  up
            in  the  war,  in  1917,  and   Harry N. Kendall, in 1931 and at right, a view of the same location 100 years later on March 25,   the church steps where the
            gave  crucial  help  to  Brit-  2018.                                                                               revelers stood.
            ain, France and other allies                                                                                        Of  the  2  million  Americans
            fighting Germany.            allied  troops  were  strug-  tionless nearby. Today, chil-  in  nearby  Neuvilly-en-Ar-  who took part in World War
            The  wartime  gloom  lifted  gling  to  push  back  the  dren ride a toy tractor past  gonne became a field hos-    I,  116,516  died  and  about
            briefly  when  U.S.  troops  front line, which had nearly  the same spot.              pital for U.S. troops.       200,000 others were injured.
            marched in a Fourth of July  reached  the  French  capi-  In a war that claimed some  Bombed out and full of rub-   Many  of  the  dead  rest  at
            parade  in  the  summer  of  tal.                         14  million  lives  —  5  million  ble,  it  was  still  the  sturdiest  the Meuse-Argonne Ameri-
            1918, through a Paris whose  Near  Verdun,  U.S.  soldiers  civilians  and  9  million  sol-  building in town.     can Cemetery and Memo-
            historic  buildings  and  cob-  ran through the main street  diers,  sailors  and  airmen  Patients  lay  on  the  floor  in  rial in Romagne-sous-Mont-
            blestone  streets  stand  little  of  Exermont  trying  to  es-  from 28 countries over four  rows, exactly as the recon-  faucon.
            changed 100 years later.     cape  German  fire,  as  a  years — and left 21 million  structed  pews  now  stand  It  is  the  largest  U.S.  ceme-
            To the north and the east,  comrade-in-arms  lay  mo-     wounded, the town church  today.                          tery in Europe to this day.q



































            This photo dated March 25, 2018, shows an inside view of a church in Neuvilly-en- This photo provided by National World War I Museum and Memorial dated July 4,
            Argonne, eastern France.                                                1918 shows American troops in a Fourth of July parade in Paris, France.
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