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A32 FEATURE
Wednesday 13 november 2019
Paella for one: Barcelona dazzles when you're traveling solo

By COURTNEY BONNELL tling with cafes and shops
BARCELONA, Spain (AP) tucked into modernist
— They were on girls' trips, buildings. See Gaudi's Casa
guys' trips, family vacations Vicens, covered with tiles
and honeymoons. of yellow flowers, down a
They were on the train, side street.
sharing massive platters Another day, book ahead
of seafood paella and the Basílica de Sagrada
packed into Anton Gaudí's Família, Gaudi's famous un-
mind-bending architectur- finished church with breath-
al jewels. taking stained-glass win-
And then there was me. dows. Cranes hoist stones
The solo female traveler in above its towers, working
Barcelona. to realize the architect's vi-
If you're taking a solo trip sion a lifetime later. Pay for
for the first time, a Europe- the audioguide.
an city like Barcelona is a Walk 10 minutes to Sant Pau
good place to start. The city Recinte Modernista, Bar-
is dynamic, the streets and celona's best kept secret.
cafes are always packed, Each of its brick wings has a
it's safe to walk around at sumptuous red- and yellow-
night and people mostly tiled roof, embossed with
speak English. religious sculpture. There
Barcelona on your own are few visitors despite its
means meandering the proximity to the most visited
Gothic Quarter's narrow landmark in the city.
streets or the Eixample This Oct. 14, 2019 photo shows the inside of Palau de la Música Catalana, built by famed architect It's a UNESCO World Heri-
neighborhood's high-end Lluís Domènech I Montaner, in Barcelona, Spain. tage Site along with Mon-
stores and 19th century ar- Associated Press taner's stunning Palau de
chitecture at your speed. la Música Catalana. A re-
And no judgment when knows for navigating the two or more: Chefs would the names of tapas and quired tour of the music
you stop for gelato or chur- city solo. make a solo serving of the walking instructions. hall's crescendo of colorful
ros and chocolate twice a EATING ALONE rice dish. One day, start at Gaudí's stained glass and mosaics
day. The toughest part about Save most of your appe- Park Güell and get ready is pricey but worth it, and
If you're planning a trip, be on-your-own journeys can tite for Spain's tradition- to climb a hill. Part of the you may even catch musi-
aware of the political con- be mealtime. Sit at the bar, ally large lunch. The menú park is free — you can see cians practicing.
flict that's turned violent at where you can chat with del día will give you three his viaducts and gardens — MONTSERRAT
times in Catalonia's capi- the bartender and get tips courses and beer or wine but don't skip the paid area. For a respite from city life,
tal. Spain's highest court from locals or other tourists. for 10 to 20 euro. It has a large square lined carve out a half-day for
sentenced leaders of a But don't be scared away WALK IT OUT with a colorful smashed-tile this mountain monastery.
Catalonian independence from Barcelona's patios You'll now have plenty of bench and boasts views of Load up on snacks and
movement to prison last and plazas. Cafés and bars fuel to hoof it 12 miles (19 the whole city. get to Plaça d'Espanya
month, setting off waves — not the thumping-music, kilometers) a day and truly It's like a fairy tale — one train station, where English-
of protests. I was in the city cruising-for-singles bars, but breathe in the city. I took a that's perfect for a selfie speaking workers will help
the day the ruling came where most people grab train just once in Barcelona. — with homes that look you buy a ticket from the
down and luckily only saw tapas and wine — are ev- Many sights are blocks like life-sized gingerbread machines for the hourlong
peaceful protesters block- erywhere and bustling. apart, including Anton houses, mosaic-encrusted train. The kiosks didn't take
ing roads and rallying with While tapas let you sample Gaudi's iconic Casa Batlló stairs, grottos and a wind- cash or an American credit
flags. delicacies like cod cro- and Casa Milà — his wavy, ing stone portico. card unless it had a PIN at-
In roughly four days in Bar- quettes and calamari, you mosaic-encrusted modern- Walk back via Carrer Gran tached, so bring your debit
celona, here are some don't have to miss out on ist buildings on the bustling de Gràcia in the hip Grà- card and expect a foreign
must-dos and need-to- the paella that's usually for Passeig de Gràcia shop- cia neighborhood, bus- transaction fee.q
ping street.
It only takes 10 minutes
between his masterpiece,
the unfinished Basílica de
Sagrada Família, and the
unmissable Sant Pau Re-
cinte Modernista, a work-
ing hospital until a decade
ago that was designed
by Gaudí's teacher, Lluís
Domènech I Montaner.
But it's going to take a cou-
ple of miles to get between
those sights in the Eixample
neighborhood and the old-
er Gothic Quarter.
BREAKING DOWN SIGHT-
This Oct. 13, 2019 photo shows the mountaintop monastery of SEEING This Oct. 14, 2019 photo shows seafood paella at a restaurant in
Montserrat about an hour’s train ride from Barcelona, Spain. First, grab a SIM card at the Barcelona, Spain.
Associated Press airport so you can Google Associated Press