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A32    FEATURE
                  Tuesday 8 augusT 2017
            Poached eels: U.S. strikes at illegal harvests as value grows




            By PATRICK WHITTLE                                                                                                  declined  to  speculate  on
            Associated Press                                                                                                    how many poachers there
            BREWER,  Maine  (AP)  —                                                                                             are and how many arrests
            Changes  in  the  worldwide                                                                                         are  expected.  A  convic-
            fisheries   industry   have                                                                                         tion for violating the Lacey
            turned live baby American                                                                                           Act,  which  prohibits  illegal
            eels into a commodity that                                                                                          wildlife  trade,  can  carry  a
            can fetch more than $2,000                                                                                          penalty of up to five years
            a  pound  at  the  dock,  but                                                                                       in  prison  and  a  fine  of  as
            the  big  demand  and  big                                                                                          much as $250,000.
            prices  have  spawned  a                                                                                            Investigators go undercov-
            black  market  that  wildlife                                                                                       er  to  track  poachers,  pos-
            officials  say  is  jeopardiz-                                                                                      ing  as  people  illegally  fish-
            ing  the  species.  Law  en-                                                                                        ing for elvers. They also fol-
            forcement authorities have                                                                                          low  eel  migrations,  hoping
            launched a crackdown on                                                                                             to  catch  illegal  fishermen
            unlicensed  eel  fishermen                                                                                          on  the  spot.  Investigators
            and  illicit  sales  along  the                                                                                     also  track  catch  records,
            East Coast. Although not a                                                                                          which  are  required  by
            well-known  seafood  item                                                                                           states,  to  look  for  possible
            like the Maine lobster, wrig-                                                                                       illegal  fishing  and  selling
            gling  baby  eels,  or  elvers,                                                                                     along the supply chain.
            are  a  fishery  worth  many   In this May 25, 2017 photo, baby eels swim plastic bag after being caught near Brewer, Maine.   The  legwork  is  necessary
            millions of dollars. Elvers of-                                                                    Associated Press  because  illegal  trade  in
            ten are sold to Asian aqua-  recent  years.  In  response,  illegal  trafficking  of  about  their  eyes  to  poaching  in  elvers  jeopardizes  the  spe-
            culture  companies  to  be  the  U.S.  Department  of  $4  million  worth  of  elvers.  2011,  the  Department  of  cies’  long-term  sustainabil-
            raised to maturity and sold  Justice,  the  U.S.  Fish  and  Two  people  are  under  in-  Justice  told  The  Associ-  ity,  said  Jeffrey  H.  Wood,
            to  the  lucrative  Japanese  Wildlife  Service  and  other  dictment, and more indict-  ated  Press.  The  investiga-  acting  assistant  attorney
            restaurant  market,  where  agencies  are  investigat-    ments are expected.          tion of people who catch,  general  with  the  Depart-
            they  mainly  are  served  ing  clandestine  harvesting  In  Maine,  more  than  400  sell or export elvers illegally  ment  of  Justice’s  environ-
            grilled. But licensed U.S. fish-  and  sales.  Operation  Bro-  licensed  fishermen  make  has ranged from Maine to  mental division.
            ermen complain poaching  ken  Glass,  a  reference  to  their living fishing for elvers  South Carolina; a New York  Maine’s  fishery  for  elvers
            has  become  widespread,  the eels’ glassy skin, has re-  in rivers such as the Penob-  seafood   distributor   was  is  the  biggest  on  the  East
            as  prices  have  climbed  in  sulted in 15 guilty pleas for  scot in Brewer and the Pas-  among those netted.      Coast,  making  it  the  sole
                                                                      sagassawakeag  in  Belfast  In  one  case,  federal  pros-  reliable source of the eels in
                                                                      every  spring.  They  say  law  ecutors  said,  three  men  the U.S. To prevent overfish-
                                                                      enforcement is vital to pro-  pleaded  guilty  in  Novem-  ing, fishermen are limited to
                                                                      tecting  the  eels  and  the  ber 2016 to trafficking more  catching  them  for  only  a
                                                                      volatile industry.           than  $740,000  worth  of  el-  few weeks every spring.
                                                                      Randy Bushey, of Steuben,
                                                                      has  been  fishing  for  elvers
                                                                      since 1993. He said he saw
                                                                      his  income  balloon  from
                                                                      as  little  as  $5,000  per  year
                                                                      in  the  1990s  to  more  than
                                                                      $350,000  in  2012.  He  said
                                                                      tighter  quotas  mean  he’s
                                                                      earning less these days, and
                                                                      in  the  most  recent  season
                                                                      he  made  about  $57,000.
                                                                      “I’ve  seen  the  best,  and
                                                                      I’ve  seen  the  worst,”  Steu-
                                                                      ben  said.  “I  want  to  see  it
                                                                      preserved.  I  want  to  see  it
                                                                      straightened out.”           In this Thursday, July 20, 2017 photo, a dish of eel nigiri is served
                                                                      The  elvers  are  legally  har-  at Miyake, a Japanese restaurant, in Portland, Maine.
                                                                      vested  in  the  U.S.  only  in                                      Associated Press
                                                                      Maine  and  South  Caro-
                                                                      lina.  The  American  eel  vers harvested illegally from  The eels hatch in the ocean
                                                                      fishery  was  typically  worth  the  Cooper  River  in  the  waters of the Sargasso Sea,
                                                                      $1  million  to  $3  million  per  Charleston, South Carolina,  a  weedy  patch  of  the  At-
                                                                      year  until  2011,  when  the  area.  In  another,  Richard  lantic Ocean between the
                                                                      economics  of  the  industry  Austin pleaded guilty in fed-  West Indies and the Azores.
                                                                      changed.  Asian  and  Euro-  eral court in Norfolk, Virgin-  They  then  follow  currents
                                                                      pean  eel  stocks  dried  up,  ia, to trafficking more than  back to rivers and streams
                                                                      and the value of American  $189,000 in illegally harvest-  from  Greenland  to  Brazil.
             In this Thursday, July 20, 2017 photo, chef Masa Miyake prepares   eels grew to more than $40  ed elvers from 2013 to 2015.  Mature eels that avoid haz-
             to clean and cook eels at his Japanese restaurant, in Portland,   million  in  2012  because  of  The  federal  agencies  in-  ards  including  fishermen’s
             Maine. Miyake is one of a growing number of restaurants that   demand  in  China,  South  volved in the poaching in-  nets, predatory fish and the
             serve Maine farm-raised eels.                            Korea  and  other  Asian  vestigations  say  there’s  no  turbines  of  hydroelectric
                                                     Associated Press  countries.                  end  date  for  their  probe.  plants will one day return to
                                                                      Investigators  also  turned  The  Department  of  Justice  spawn in the Sargasso.q
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