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A32 FEATURE
Monday 11 noveMber 2019
Despite fires, California wine is doing just fine - for now

By RACHEL LERMAN different pruning methods
HEALDSBURG, Calif. (AP) to increase shade on the
— If you're worried that plants, although they don't
wildfires might have cre- see any need to shift to
ated shortages of Northern new growing areas.
California's 2019 cabernet "We don't want to be too
sauvignon, or even just im- dramatic or reactionary,"
parted it with an undesir- he said. "We are going to
able smoky flavor, you can take baby steps to make
relax. The wine is just fine. sure we're prepared for
For now. what comes down."
Despite a late October Tourism, which is usually
blaze that raged through booming amid the fall col-
one of the world's best- ors and mild temperatures,
known wine-growing re- has taken a serious blow.
gions. forcing evacuations Evacuations of nearby
in two mid-sized towns, Healdsburg and Windsor,
wine production in Sonoma along with planned black-
County escaped largely outs by the region's util-
unscathed. ity, PG&E — plus, the wide-
Limerick Lane Wines, for spread misperception that
instance, avoided serious the vineyards themselves
damage despite flames In this Wednesday, Nov. 6, 2019 photo, Cabernet Sauvignon grapes left unpicked hang in a vine- burned — led to a rash of
that licked at two sides yard along Highway 128 in Geyserville, Calif. cancellations for hotel, res-
of its property in the Rus- Associated Press taurant and tasting-room
sian River Valley just south reservations.
of Healdsburg. Limerick's harvest in. The remaining lost no production. But the related. Joe Bartolomei, owner of
grapes were already har- grapes weren't all lost, but region has suffered a pre- Oddly enough, those same the upscale boutique hotel
vested, crushed and stored that year's vintages were cipitous drop in fall tourism, effects can help protect Farmhouse Inn in Forestville,
in tanks and barrels. The rumored to have a "smoky" which could undermine the the grape crop by accel- said he would normally be
winery's sealed cellar pre- taste, and winemakers economic health of its win- erating ripening of the fruit sold out this time of year.
vented smoke damage were taking no chances eries and hospitality indus- and reducing the chance But on Nov. 1, his inn had
to its inventory, said owner this year. try alike. that unexpectedly early only two of 25 rooms filled.
Jake Bilbro, although its Many in Sonoma, a sprawl- Bret Munselle lost about half rains might damage it. He's trying to get the mes-
tasting room now has an ing county larger than of the young vines he had Wine researchers have sug- sage out that the county
acrid smell. Rhode Island located planted just two months gested vineyards might businesses are intact and
"I have to thank the peo- about an hour north of San before when a fire raged need to adjust harvest open for visitors.
ple who planted our vine- Francisco, say they're hop- through the upper part of times, evaluate what they But, he said, "it's going to be
yards and built our house ing that fires don't become his ranch at Munselle Vine- plant, even possibly move a slow, gradual education."
100 years ago," Bilbro said. the new normal. But with yards in Alexander Valley, to cooler areas over time. Visitor numbers had just
"Our buildings are all sur- the smell of smoke lingers between Healdsburg and Few grape growers are started recovering from a
rounded by vineyards, and in the air and the charred Geyserville. The drainage dramatically changing similar drop-off following
vineyards are excellent fire hills serving as a reminder, below the plants was also their practices yet. No one the 2017 fires, said Sonoma
breaks." they're also making plans in damaged, and will proba- is talking about closing up County Tourism president
Overall, vintners estimate case they do. bly cost $150,000 to repair, shop or moving elsewhere. Clauda Vecchio.
that the region lost only Fire season isn't over yet, he said. But winemakers are tinker- So the tourism bureau now
about five percent of its of course, and the now It could have been much ing anyway — and every- plans to promote wine
harvest to fire and smoke largely contained Kincade worse if mature vineyards one is buying backup gen- country as a spring desti-
— not a perfect outcome, fire did incinerate the his- were more appealing to erators. nation rather than fall, and
but better than in 2017, toric Soda Rock Winery, fire. Water-rich vines and Clay Mauritson of Mauritson is devoting the bulk of its
when wildfire struck with although most vineyards grapes planted in plowed Wines said he and his fam- $750,000 advertising bud-
only about 90% of the sustained no damage and rows don't offer them much ily are experimenting with get to that end. q
fuel, he said.
"My family has lived on this
property for 130 years,"
Munselle said. "We've nev-
er seen it burn from the tops
of mountains to the valley
floor."
Climate change is making
summers warmer and dry-
ing out more forest brush,
creating greater fuel reser-
voirs for wildfire, said Noah
Diffenbaugh, a professor
of earth system science at
Stanford. The late-autumn
In this Wednesday, Nov. 6, 2019 photo, partner Bret Munselle rains that typically end fire
of Munselle Vineyards walks down the hillside where he lost season have started later In this Wednesday, Nov. 6, 2019 photo, Mark Dankowski, right,
about half of the young vines he had planted before a fire raged in recent years, he said, leads a tasting for a group of people visiting the Soda Rock Win-
through the upper part of his ranch in Geyserville, Calif. although it's not yet clear ery in Healdsburg, Calif.
Associated Press whether that's also climate- Associated Press