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A32    FEATURE
               Friday 15 September 2017
              Be prepared to make pastry cream and caramel. It’s tart time




            By The Associated Press                                                                                             mixture is smooth and well
            There are two kinds of pas-                                                                                         blended, 3 to 4 minutes.
            try  lovers.  The  first  orders                                                                                    Turn off the mixer and add
            a  pastry  and  savors  it  in                                                                                      the  flour,  cornstarch,  and
            a  moment  of  bliss,  oblivi-                                                                                      salt  all  at  once.  Pulse  the
            ous  to  the  world.  The  sec-                                                                                     mixer  until  the  dry  ingredi-
            ond  orders  a  few  pastries                                                                                       ents  are  moistened  and
            and  enjoys  bites  of  each,                                                                                       then mix on low speed for
            acutely attuned to the fla-                                                                                         1 minute, or until just com-
            vors  and  textures,  as  their                                                                                     bined. Do not overmix.
            gears turn and they “figure                                                                                         Turn the dough out onto a
            it out.”                                                                                                            lightly floured work surface.
            Though  we  all  have  mo-                                                                                          Shape the dough into a 5-
            ments of being both types                                                                                           to  6-inch  disc  and  wrap  it
            of people, here at The Cu-                                                                                          tightly  in  plastic  wrap.  Re-
            linary  Institute  of  America,                                                                                     frigerate for at least 1 hour,
            we do spend a lot of time                                                                                           or preferably overnight, un-
            trying to “figure it out.” As                                                                                       til firm.
            chefs  and  culinary  stu-                                                                                          CARAMEL PASTRY CREAM
            dents, it is impossible to eat                                                                                      Servings: 10
            a sweet treat without ana-                                                                                          1/2 cup sugar, divided use
            lyzing  its  components.  Not                                                                                       2  cups  milk,  warmed,  di-
            out of judgment (because                                                                                            vided use
            we definitely know how to                                                                                           Pinch of kosher salt
            enjoy  a  decadent  pastry)                                                                                         3 tablespoons cornstarch
            but for inspiration.             This 2017 photo provided by The Culinary Institute of America shows a caramel apple tarts in   3 large eggs
            Very  often,  a  professional     Hyde Park, N.Y. This dish is from a recipe by the CIA. (Phil Mansfield/The Culinary Institute of   1 tablespoon unsalted but-
            dessert  contains  easy-to-                                                            America via Associated Press)  ter
            prepare  ingredients  us-    eggs  don’t  overcook.”  If  Prepare  vanilla  tart  dough  confectioners’  sugar  until   Place 1/4 cup plus 2 table-
            ing  professional  tools  and   you  don’t  nail  this  the  first  and,  once  well-chilled,  re-  lightly coated. Set aside.  spoons  of  the  sugar  in  a
            equipment.    That   gives   time, you’re not alone. Just  move  from  the  refrigera-  Arrange the apple pieces,   medium  saucepan  with
            us  unique  shapes,  tower-  pass the mixture through a  tor to soften slightly, about  allowing  excess  syrup  to   tall sides. Add just enough
            ing  heights,  and  finished   strainer  or  cheese  cloth  to  10  minutes.  On  a  lightly  drip  off  as  you  go,  onto   water  to  make  a  sandy
            products  that  are  difficult   remove those lumps.      floured  surface,  roll  the  the top of the tart until the   consistency, about 3 table-
            to  replicate  in  the  home   You’ll  be  making  caramel  dough  to  about  1/4-inch  cream  is  completely  cov-  spoons. In a medium heat-
            kitchen. The small tart pans   twice in this recipe, and by  thick,  then  transfer  it  to  a  ered. Sprinkle with oatmeal   safe  bowl,  combine  the
            used to create the base of   the end, you may feel like  10-inch  tart  pan.  Gently  cookie pieces and serve at    remaining  2  tablespoons
            this dessert can be hard to   an  old  pro.  We  added  a  press  the  dough  into  the  once.                      of  sugar,  1/3  cup  of  milk,
            find and expensive to buy,   little  water  to  the  method  pan  (the  dough  is  fragile,  VANILLA TART DOUGH     salt, cornstarch, and eggs,
            so  we’ve  revised  this  reci-  here,  which  is  Caramel  but any cracks or tears can  Makes  1  disc,  enough  for   and whisk to combine. Set
            pe to be prepared as one     101.  It  takes  a  little  longer  be  pressed  back  together  one 10-inch tart      aside. Line a medium bak-
            large tart in a basic 10-inch   than starting with dry sugar,  or  patched  with  excess  1/2  cup  (1  stick)  unsalted   ing dish or rimmed baking
            tart pan.                    but it helps keep the sugar  dough), and trim the edg-    butter, softened             sheet with plastic wrap. Set
            Of  course,  that’s  not  to   from  burning.  The  amount  es.  Use  a  fork  to  prick  the  1/2 cup confectioners’ sug-  aside.
            say  that  you  can’t  make   doesn’t matter much — just  dough all over, then refrig-  ar, sifted                  Bring  the  sugar-water  mix-
            this  Caramel  Apple  Tart   add enough so it’s like wet  erate for at least 1 hour, or  1 egg                      ture to a boil over medium
            recipe using individual tart   sand. If you add too much,  up to overnight.            1 teaspoon vanilla extract   heat, stirring constantly un-
            pans,  if  you’d  like.  If  you   no big deal. It just takes a  Line  the  chilled  crust  with  1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour  til the mixture begins to boil,
            find molds like the ones in   bit  longer  to  cook,  since  lightly   oiled   parchment  1 tablespoon cornstarch   then  cook  without  stirring
            our photo, you  may  need    the  objective  is  to  evapo-  and  fill  with  pie  weights or  1/2 teaspoon kosher salt  until the sugar turns golden
            more  tart  dough  to  make   rate  all  of  the  water.  You  dried beans. Partially blind  In the bowl of a stand mixer   brown, about 6 minutes.
            eight  or  10  portions,  since   can share that little behind-  bake  the  crust  until  it  is  a  fitted  with  the  paddle  at-  Carefully  add  1  2/3  cups
            they’re so deep. So in that   the-scenes  nugget  with  matte,  pale  golden  color,  tachment,  combine  the       of the milk, stirring to com-
            case, you’ll probably want   your friends when they ask  15 to 20 minutes. Lower the  butter and sugar. With the    bine.  Be  careful,  as  the
            to double your tart dough    you where you bought this  oven temperature to 350 F.  mixer on low speed, cream       mixture  will  rise  in  the  pan
            and pastry cream recipes,    very professional tart.      Remove  the  weights  and  together  the  butter  and     and splatter. Remove from
            just to make sure you have   CARAMEL APPLE TART           parchment  and  bake  un-    sugar  until  well  combined,   the heat.
            enough.                      Servings: 10                 til  lightly  browned,  about  4  to  5  minutes.  Raise  the   Gently  pour  about  1/4  of
            Pastry cream is one of the   Start  to  finish:  2  hours  45  10  minutes  more.  Remove  mixer  speed  to  medium   the  hot  milk  mixture  into
            most  common  profession-    minutes  (Active  time:  45  the  crust  from  the  oven  and  mix,  scraping  down    the  egg  mixture,  whisking
            al  pastry  components,  so   minutes)                    and place it on a rack until  the  sides  of  the  bowl  as   constantly.  Whisk  in  an-
            you’ll be happy to master    Vanilla  Tart  Dough  (see  completely cooled.            necessary, until the mixture   other  quarter,  then  return
            the  technique.  Chef  Me-   recipe)                      Transfer  the  cooled  pastry  is well combined and light   to the stove. Pour the egg
            lissa  Walnock  says,  “Pastry   Caramel   Pastry   Cream  cream to a bowl and beat  in color, about 5 minutes.     mixture into the pot, whisk-
            cream  is  simple,  but  easy   (see recipe)              it  with  a  wooden  spoon  In  a  small  bowl,  whisk  to-  ing constantly.
            to  overcook.  Once  you     4 prepared oatmeal cook-     until  it  is  creamy,  about  1  gether the egg and vanilla.   Over  low  heat,  bring  the
            have  combined  your  liai-  ies, crumbled                minute. Fill the cooled pan  With the mixer on medium     mixture to a simmer, whisk-
            son  of  eggs,  sugar,  and   1  teaspoon  confectioners’  with the pastry cream and  speed,  gradually  add  the   ing  constantly,  until  the
            cornstarch  with  your  hot   sugar, or as needed         spread  it  using  an  offset  egg  mixture  to  the  butter   mixture has thickened con-
            dairy, you need to cook it   Caramelized  Apples  (see  spatula.                       mixture  and  mix,  scrap-   siderably, about 3 minutes.
            on low while whisking con-   recipe)                      In a small bowl, toss the oat-  ing  down  the  sides  of  the   Remove from the heat and
            stantly  to  make  sure  your   Preheat the oven to 400 F.  meal  cookie  pieces  in  the  bowl as necessary, until the   stir in the butter.
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