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A32 FEATURE
Friday 15 September 2017
Be prepared to make pastry cream and caramel. It’s tart time
By The Associated Press mixture is smooth and well
There are two kinds of pas- blended, 3 to 4 minutes.
try lovers. The first orders Turn off the mixer and add
a pastry and savors it in the flour, cornstarch, and
a moment of bliss, oblivi- salt all at once. Pulse the
ous to the world. The sec- mixer until the dry ingredi-
ond orders a few pastries ents are moistened and
and enjoys bites of each, then mix on low speed for
acutely attuned to the fla- 1 minute, or until just com-
vors and textures, as their bined. Do not overmix.
gears turn and they “figure Turn the dough out onto a
it out.” lightly floured work surface.
Though we all have mo- Shape the dough into a 5-
ments of being both types to 6-inch disc and wrap it
of people, here at The Cu- tightly in plastic wrap. Re-
linary Institute of America, frigerate for at least 1 hour,
we do spend a lot of time or preferably overnight, un-
trying to “figure it out.” As til firm.
chefs and culinary stu- CARAMEL PASTRY CREAM
dents, it is impossible to eat Servings: 10
a sweet treat without ana- 1/2 cup sugar, divided use
lyzing its components. Not 2 cups milk, warmed, di-
out of judgment (because vided use
we definitely know how to Pinch of kosher salt
enjoy a decadent pastry) 3 tablespoons cornstarch
but for inspiration. This 2017 photo provided by The Culinary Institute of America shows a caramel apple tarts in 3 large eggs
Very often, a professional Hyde Park, N.Y. This dish is from a recipe by the CIA. (Phil Mansfield/The Culinary Institute of 1 tablespoon unsalted but-
dessert contains easy-to- America via Associated Press) ter
prepare ingredients us- eggs don’t overcook.” If Prepare vanilla tart dough confectioners’ sugar until Place 1/4 cup plus 2 table-
ing professional tools and you don’t nail this the first and, once well-chilled, re- lightly coated. Set aside. spoons of the sugar in a
equipment. That gives time, you’re not alone. Just move from the refrigera- Arrange the apple pieces, medium saucepan with
us unique shapes, tower- pass the mixture through a tor to soften slightly, about allowing excess syrup to tall sides. Add just enough
ing heights, and finished strainer or cheese cloth to 10 minutes. On a lightly drip off as you go, onto water to make a sandy
products that are difficult remove those lumps. floured surface, roll the the top of the tart until the consistency, about 3 table-
to replicate in the home You’ll be making caramel dough to about 1/4-inch cream is completely cov- spoons. In a medium heat-
kitchen. The small tart pans twice in this recipe, and by thick, then transfer it to a ered. Sprinkle with oatmeal safe bowl, combine the
used to create the base of the end, you may feel like 10-inch tart pan. Gently cookie pieces and serve at remaining 2 tablespoons
this dessert can be hard to an old pro. We added a press the dough into the once. of sugar, 1/3 cup of milk,
find and expensive to buy, little water to the method pan (the dough is fragile, VANILLA TART DOUGH salt, cornstarch, and eggs,
so we’ve revised this reci- here, which is Caramel but any cracks or tears can Makes 1 disc, enough for and whisk to combine. Set
pe to be prepared as one 101. It takes a little longer be pressed back together one 10-inch tart aside. Line a medium bak-
large tart in a basic 10-inch than starting with dry sugar, or patched with excess 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted ing dish or rimmed baking
tart pan. but it helps keep the sugar dough), and trim the edg- butter, softened sheet with plastic wrap. Set
Of course, that’s not to from burning. The amount es. Use a fork to prick the 1/2 cup confectioners’ sug- aside.
say that you can’t make doesn’t matter much — just dough all over, then refrig- ar, sifted Bring the sugar-water mix-
this Caramel Apple Tart add enough so it’s like wet erate for at least 1 hour, or 1 egg ture to a boil over medium
recipe using individual tart sand. If you add too much, up to overnight. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract heat, stirring constantly un-
pans, if you’d like. If you no big deal. It just takes a Line the chilled crust with 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour til the mixture begins to boil,
find molds like the ones in bit longer to cook, since lightly oiled parchment 1 tablespoon cornstarch then cook without stirring
our photo, you may need the objective is to evapo- and fill with pie weights or 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt until the sugar turns golden
more tart dough to make rate all of the water. You dried beans. Partially blind In the bowl of a stand mixer brown, about 6 minutes.
eight or 10 portions, since can share that little behind- bake the crust until it is a fitted with the paddle at- Carefully add 1 2/3 cups
they’re so deep. So in that the-scenes nugget with matte, pale golden color, tachment, combine the of the milk, stirring to com-
case, you’ll probably want your friends when they ask 15 to 20 minutes. Lower the butter and sugar. With the bine. Be careful, as the
to double your tart dough you where you bought this oven temperature to 350 F. mixer on low speed, cream mixture will rise in the pan
and pastry cream recipes, very professional tart. Remove the weights and together the butter and and splatter. Remove from
just to make sure you have CARAMEL APPLE TART parchment and bake un- sugar until well combined, the heat.
enough. Servings: 10 til lightly browned, about 4 to 5 minutes. Raise the Gently pour about 1/4 of
Pastry cream is one of the Start to finish: 2 hours 45 10 minutes more. Remove mixer speed to medium the hot milk mixture into
most common profession- minutes (Active time: 45 the crust from the oven and mix, scraping down the egg mixture, whisking
al pastry components, so minutes) and place it on a rack until the sides of the bowl as constantly. Whisk in an-
you’ll be happy to master Vanilla Tart Dough (see completely cooled. necessary, until the mixture other quarter, then return
the technique. Chef Me- recipe) Transfer the cooled pastry is well combined and light to the stove. Pour the egg
lissa Walnock says, “Pastry Caramel Pastry Cream cream to a bowl and beat in color, about 5 minutes. mixture into the pot, whisk-
cream is simple, but easy (see recipe) it with a wooden spoon In a small bowl, whisk to- ing constantly.
to overcook. Once you 4 prepared oatmeal cook- until it is creamy, about 1 gether the egg and vanilla. Over low heat, bring the
have combined your liai- ies, crumbled minute. Fill the cooled pan With the mixer on medium mixture to a simmer, whisk-
son of eggs, sugar, and 1 teaspoon confectioners’ with the pastry cream and speed, gradually add the ing constantly, until the
cornstarch with your hot sugar, or as needed spread it using an offset egg mixture to the butter mixture has thickened con-
dairy, you need to cook it Caramelized Apples (see spatula. mixture and mix, scrap- siderably, about 3 minutes.
on low while whisking con- recipe) In a small bowl, toss the oat- ing down the sides of the Remove from the heat and
stantly to make sure your Preheat the oven to 400 F. meal cookie pieces in the bowl as necessary, until the stir in the butter.

