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Rwanda

Uncomfortable Truths

form of airline hospitality. A trolley brings round free hot drinks and snacks. Drinks served
on 'china'. Non-luxury long-distance buses have had me sitting for three hours in the baking

sun as the driver refused to go - no matter the scheduled departure time - until the bus was

full. But these buses gave me access to the most colourful of African life. My safety
watched over by different African women.

The motola is something else. Think of a vehicle like an old-fashioned ‘Ford Transit’
van but one which has been created by welding together parts from 'write-offs' found in a

scrap yard. Vehicles that aren't finished. It might be that the passenger door won't shut and

is secured (when necessary) by some sort of strap. Or it’s the window that isn't there. Very
definitely it’s a vehicle where it’s just not sensible to think of matters like wheel alignment

or tracking. Not possible, so don't go there. I used to be scolded for taking the motola. "Our

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insurance won't cover you". Such a m'zuŋ u statement. If they only ever visited Lilongwe,
they would realise that in order to maximise the number of passengers, the driver has to go
slowly. Go fast and he won't see the potential passenger approaching. Around town the

motola looks dangerous, but it’s not. Just don't use the motola for 'out of town' long
distance journeys.

*****
In Uganda, unless you travel on one of the country's Postal Service buses, which are
regarded as the safest and most reliable, it’s best to know which private bus company to

use. It’s normal for buses to be 'ram-packed'.
Bus companies notionally deduct petrol costs from the overall passenger fares and

then allocate a small amount for the bus crew. It’s a system that guarantees the bus

company their money. It’s also a system that encourages the bus crew to break the rules.
To overcrowd the bus whenever possible.

Uganda can be somewhat lawless. I have been on a minibus where we have been

stopped at one police check point. Our driver has handed the policeman something to
'smooth the way'. Two or three miles later, we have been stopped at another police check

point. This time, the driver has had to tell 3 passengers to get out because these police

have said the minibus is over-crowded.
*****