Page 79 - United States of Pie

Shoofly Pie

The moment I began working on this book, I knew that shoofly pie
would have a place on the list—not so much for personal reasons,
but because shoofly pie is a Pennsylvania Dutch standard. In fact,
whenever the book came up in conversation, often one of the first
things people wanted to know was whether I was going to include

shoofly pie. I would nod and ask if they happened to have a favorite
recipe for the pie. Each time I did, my question was met with the
same response: “Oh, I’ve never actually had the pie; I just know that
it’s a regional specialty.” And so my quest began.
The pie is traditionally made with lots of molasses, and it’s thought
that the name derives from the need to wave one’s hand above it,
shooing away syrup-loving flies. This tells you that the Pennsylvania

Dutch liked their desserts sweet! There are as many variations on
shoofly pie as there are syrup-hungry flies, but the two main types
are “wet bottom” and “dry bottom.” In a wet-bottom pie, the layer
closest to the bottom crust is a smooth molasses-egg custard, with a
crumb top. A dry-bottom pie alternates layers of crumb topping with
a similar molasses filling, which gives the pie a firm, almost cakey

crumb. But no matter the style—wet or dry—the mainstay of the pie
is molasses. During the settlement of America, the settlers often
found their cupboards close to bare during the winter and early
spring. What was left in the larder were pantry staples—flour, lard,
and molasses—and this dessert was born.
After trying quite a few shoofly pies, I came to appreciate the
chewiness of the dry-bottom version—and that’s what this one is.

Molasses can be an acquired taste, so I use a light hand with it here.
I find a bit of ginger and cinnamon lend the pie a gingerbreadlike