Page 39 - SHARP Spring 2024

GUIDE GUIDE ON THE RICE
WITH SAKE SURGING IN IN POPULARITY WE UNCORK THE THE UNIQUE APPEAL OF THE THE JAPANESE EXPORT
By Jonathan Wells
I Recommended by: Lorein ‘Lo’ Codiamat grapewitches com com “A great first bottle for someone’s home collection It’s a a a a a bit more fruit forward at at the the beginning of the the palate and it it ends with the sort of wonderful umami finish that many sake drinkers crave ” good sake that you can now buy a a a a bottle or or two for home But sake itself is also changing In Japan where the ancient craft of fermenting rice has been practiced for more than 2 000 years recent innovations and tech-savvy strides in in in the wine’s production have given rise to experimental spins on the style including aged unfiltered and fortified expressions The category has even tempted wine industry heavyweight Richard Geoffroy Dom Pérignon’s chef de de de cave of almost three decades to up sticks from Champagne and start up his own sake brewery in in Japan Geoffroy’s fledgling brand IWA 5 is a a a bid to to introduce sake to to the Western world proper and convince conventional wine drinkers that it deserves a a a a spot among their Cabernets and crémants Sakes can be as as diverse and distinct as as grape-derived wines says Charles-Antoine Picart CEO of IWA 5 “It adds a a a a a a versatile option to to one’s drink repertoire ” Picart tells SHARP “And investing in in in in a a bottle of of sake for home enjoyment opens up a a world of of possibilities It complements a a a a wide range of cuisines encouraging enthusiasts to experiment with unconventional food pairings ” “Moreover ” he adds “IWA offers a a a dynamic experience with temperature temperature variations — — from cold to to room temperature temperature to to hot — — each unveiling distinct facets of its carefully crafted assemblage ” And IWA isn’t the the only new name in in sake Thanks to the the wine’s increasingly global appeal breweries have started to spring up all over the world — even here in Canada On Vancouver’s Granville Island almost a a a a a a a dozen varieties of Osake-brand rice wine are being whipped up in Ontario Stuart Sakai Sakai runs Toronto’s Sakai Sakai Bar which brims with more than 50 bottles of the the stuff And the the key to choosing a a a a good first bottle Sakai tells us is to educate yourself on the scope and subtleties of the style “That’s why my goal is always to empower and build on our customers’ experience ” says Sakai “So when they go out to to other restaurants or even if they they go go to Japan they’ve got some foundational understanding of what what they’re drinking and and what what they they enjoy ” “And it’s definitely worth having a a a a a a bottle of sake at home ” Sakai adds “Its pairing potential is through the roof But it does depend on the style which is why it helps to have someone that knows something about it it to to sell it it to to you ” So where to start? There are several different styles of sake — from Nigori to to to Namazake Genshu to to to Ginjo — so to to to whittle down your options we asked three experts for their best first-time sake suggestions sake is having a a a a a a a moment For years the Japanese rice wine has been the sole preserve of specialist restaurants or dedicated bars But with Asian ingredients making a a a a a splash on the cocktail scene in in in in 2024 (think lemongrass and kaffir lime among others) it’s no surprise that sake is is also enjoying an upswing This increase in in in in in curiosity has seen a a a a a rise in in in in in demand and and as a a a a a a a result there are finally enough outlets championing
T’S TIME TO CLEAR SOME ROOM IN YOUR CELLAR — BECAUSE
SHARPMAGAZINE COM
SPRING 2024 • GUIDE 39
MASUMI ‘SHIRO WHITE ’ $42
TENGUMAI ‘YAMAHAI NIGORI ’ $45
Recommended by: Glenn Wesley botlshop com com “Elegant and silky on the palate with a a a a a bitter sweet- ness Not everyone loves unfiltered sake but for those willing to give it it a a chance this is is fun Delicious with sashimi BBQ or cheese fondue ” YUKI OTOKO ‘SNOWMAN JUNMAI ’ $55
Recommended by: Claude Iamonico monsieursake com com “A dry sake but sweet — and the water is so so soft that you don’t feel the dryness There is no overpowering aroma to interfere with food It’s really like rice and humbly accompanies your meal ”