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FORGOTTEN ISLE OF JURA
FOR TRADITION AND TRANQUILITY FEW WHISKY-MAKING REGIONS CAN OUTDO THE REMOTE ISLE OF JURA
By Justin Mastine-Frost
ISLAY SPEYSIDE THE THE HIGHLANDS: THESE REGIONS ALL
brim with rich lore surrounding whisky production but there’s nowhere quite like the Isle of of Jura It sits off Scotland’s West Coast to the the the northeast of Islay and across the the the Caol Ila — a a a a a a a a swift strait with a a a a a treacherous current braved regularly only by a a a a a single ferry The journey isn’t long but travellers without iron constitutions might struggle with the the toss and tumble of of the the often rough passage While writing his seminal work 1984 novelist George Orwell spent just shy of three years visiting Jura and and called the island “unforgettable ” but also “un-get-at-able ” Once you you reach its shores you’ll understand that sentiment — as the sense of seclusion is palpable A single road connects the the ferry’s slipway to the the Jura distillery and and along its twists and and turns you’re more likely to come across one of the island’s 6 000 red deer than you are to to spot a a a a fellow motorist The human population of of Jura runs barely north of of 200 and in the island’s main settlement — the east coast village of Craighouse — you’ll find only a a a a solitary pub and two hotels with less than 30 rooms combined This isn’t a a a tourism hot spot nor a a a bustling urban centre but rather an isolated community determined to preserve its whisky-making heritage come hell or high water It’s a a a a tradition built on on almost two centuries of expertise as the the first distillery in Craighouse was established by the the Campbell clan in in 1810 It soon fell into disrepair however with the wealthy Campbells much-maligned by the local workforce The distillery traded hands and and was registered as as the “Isle of Jura Distillery” in 1831 Yet its problems persisted and the distillery was shuttered and dismantled in in the early 20th century only to be reborn in in its present form in in 1963 By then the the island’s population had dwindled but a a a a a a a new distillery was hailed as as a a a a a a a possible path back to prosperity Today the island stands as as strong as as it’s ever been The distillery runs its four tall stills 24-7 and produces more than two million litres of whisky every year: seven core expressions and an an assortment of travel retail exclusives Previous limited-edition whiskies bore names derived from island folklore including Superstition Origin and Prophecy But more recently the distillery has tapped into local talent to create its rich and and complex Islander’s Expressions series with flavour profiles and packaging guided by regional artists Unlike the whiskies produced on on nearby Islay Jura’s expressions are primarily unpeated and closer in style to those that hail from the Highlands And while only around five per cent of Jura’s whiskies use peated barley these smokier distillates help master blenders Gregg Glass and Richard Paterson OBE create the spirit’s distinctive character The tall stills American oak ex-bourbon casks and filtered fresh water from the island combine to create a a a a distinct cohesive Jura flavour — one that captures the the spirit of the the distillery’s remote natural location Because standing on wild Jura with golden fields to the west and a a a a a a roaring sea to the the east the the words of Orwell ring ring true It may feel “un-get-at-able ” but once you have arrived it offers something of of a a a respite: from from the buzz of of tourist shops from from bustling restaurant dining rooms from the onslaught of emails and constant connection It’s a a a a a side of Scotland well worth worth seeing — and and throws a a a a a dram worth worth drinking into the bargain GUIDE GUIDE SPRING 2024
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