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Tell us about the art of collaborating on a cookbook with a friend.
Julie Tanous: You have recipes that reflect my Southern
background and some that show Jesse’s New Mexico roots and
then quite a few that are a hybrid of both. One day Jesse and I
were just reminiscing over things our moms would make for us as
snacks after school. Jesse’s mom used to make these hatch green
chile and cream cheese roll-ups, while my mom would serve me
pimiento cheese on white bread. Then we looked at each other at
the same time and just knew we had to do a crossover. And that’s
where those hatch green chile and pimiento cheese roll-ups came
from in our snack chapter, just from two friends talking.
Jesse Tyler Ferguson: There were certain recipes that we took
individual ownership for in testing—we each had our “marching
orders.” But for the most part, this book was extremely
collaborative. Ideas we pitched changed over time as we considered
each other’s testing or input. Our constant changes could be a
little hectic for our publisher. They’d be expecting a recipe for
baklava French toast, and we handed them a recipe for roast
chicken instead.
What was it like writing, editing, and photographing a cookbook
in during the COVID-19 pandemic?
Jesse: The timing weirdly worked. We had much of the cookbook
developed beforehand, and then with quarantine, we were able to
spend a lot more time in the kitchen testing recipes.
Julie: And we’ve had a lot of help from family and friends. Brian
[Hart Hoffman] actually helped us with the Sweet & Sticky
Orange Cardamom Buns. He offered to test them for us, and
when he gave us feedback, he mentioned a great trick for cutting
the dough with dental floss—and that tip made it into the book!
Jesse: Most of the photography for the cookbook was done
remotely in San Francisco, California, where our photographer,
Eva, lives. So, Julie and I were just checking in over Zoom. But, of
course, the first day of the shoot was the day my son was due to be
delivered, so I was in the hospital, managing a remote photo shoot
while simultaneously waiting for a baby to come into the world. It
was actually a really special time, a nice little distraction from the
arrival of—well, the rest of my life.
Julie: It was executed perfectly. Jesse would pop on with his little
medical hat, decked out in scrubs, with a baby in his arms, and say,
“Love that shot!”
What are some baked goods—sweet or savory—that you’re
particularly proud of that are in the cookbook?
Jesse: Julie’s definitely the better baker in the arena. But one
of the recipes I’m really proud of is the asparagus and leek
galette. Julie taught me how to perfect my piecrust. I have been
traumatized by piecrust. Then Julie walked me through the process
like I was a five-year-old. She patiently worked with me until I felt
confident enough to make my own savory galette. I made sure
those jewels of pie wisdom from Julie showed up in the cookbook.
And, Julie, if you don’t talk about your chocolate cake, I don’t even
know what we’re doing this interview for.
Julie: Oh, geez. The cake.
Jesse: First off—Julie left this cake to the very last minute. She was
always very confident. She knew exactly what she was going to do.
She kept saying, “It’s not a priority.” Then it came time to make
the cake. Julie?
Julie: I wanted to make a version of my great-aunt Maddy’s
chocolate cake, which has this boiled fudge frosting. It’s really
meant to be poured over cakes. But I had it in my head that I could
use it on a two-layer 9-inch cake. It, uh, works, but it’s difficult to
use as a frosting. I think I’ve tested this frosting 40 times now. I
got my mom involved to help. Jesse wouldn’t even try it. He said,
“Just hearing you talk about it, I’m terrified.”
Jesse: I did try it! After you had finished tweaking it—and it is
delicious.
Julie: I’m pretty sure I’ve tweaked it since then, too. Now, the cake
has this amazing buttercream chocolate frosting—but nothing gets
boiled, I promise.
BFS: Above all else, what do you hope people get out of the
cookbook?
Jesse: What we hoped to capture in the book is what Julie and I
have always treasured about being in the kitchen. Cooking and
baking don’t have to be serious or stressful. It can be a fun, casual
experience. Our photography reflects this—we didn’t plate the
food using tweezers. We wanted to show the mess—and joy—of
what it is to bake with friends. I hope it’s the cookbook that people
can pull down on a Wednesday night and just make an easy meal
or they can use to create a fancy full-blown dinner party with
homemade cocktails and desserts.
Julie: We set out to write a cookbook, but it became such a
beautiful story. I keep telling my friends, “Read the words,”
because the stories behind the recipes are funny and sweet and
moving. I hope it brings joy to people to not only make our recipes
but to know the stories behind them.
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