Page 2 - Wheel Cylinder Rebuild

Once the parts are cleaned it is time to phosphate or paint the cylinders. A solution from Palmetto Enterprises is used. On a propane portable
stove get a stainless pot big enough for the parts. Follow the mixing instructions for the solution, heat to 175 degrees and drop the clean parts
into the solution and once they stop bubbling remove the parts from the pot and spray down with WD-40. The WD-40 heats up and turns to a
heavy oil that will soak in and protect the finish. Only use a stainless pot, other materials react with the solution causing pot failure in minutes.

Now that the cylinder is completely taken apart, take a look at the cylinder wall, the wall may have small pits, as long as pits do not run under the
inner seals it is ok. The seal is what holds the fluid in so this area must be clean. If there is major rust or heavy pitting where the seals ride this
may result in a leaking cylinder even after it has been rebuilt. Light pits located in the center of the cylinder have no affect on performance. This
piston will ride against the inner seal. Since brake fluid collects moisture the cylinder usually has a few pits but nothing that will affect the rebuild.
If there is heavy pits the cylinder may be unusable and a new one will have to be used. Another option is to have the cylinder sleeved, this can
cost $60 to $80 for each cylinder. The cylinder will be bored to the next size and a stainless sleeve will be pressed in.

The assembly will go back together the same as it came apart. First with your finger as a back stop, slide the spring into the hole, then insert the
piston seal with the smooth side out and the convex side against the spring, next the piston will go in with the smooth side in and finally the end
seal as pictured. Repeat for the other side. When installing the rubber seal and the end seal it is helpful to spray WD-40 or apply brake fluid on
the parts to make installation smoother. If you decide to paint the cylinder the brake fluid will eat the paint.

Repeat the same process on the other end of the cylinder.

Once the end seals are in place, use a hammer and a block of wood and lightly tap the seal ring into place. The seal has a metal band formed
into the rubber that must seat to the cast body. Once the seal is tapped into place install the bleeder screw, wheel cylinder pins, and you are now
ready to install the finished wheel cylinder into the backing plate. The silver and gold zinc parts can be re-plated or Inline tube offers new
hardware.