Page 198 - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice
P. 198

In Praise of the Logger’s Tape

               There’s more to measuring a log than seeing how   onto it, return the bail to the tape end, and remove
               long and wide it is. More often than not it involves   the clamp. You can now measure anything. You can
               fighting your way over difficult terrain while lugging   hitch the string onto the standing part of a halyard,
               heavy, awkward tools, without even the luxury of a   above the shackle and splice, for a true deck-to-
               helper to hold the quiet end of the tape for you. And   sheave measurement (always tie the other end of the
               loggers, paid by the board foot, have no time for   halyard—or some other line—through the shackle
               cranking conventional long tapes up with those silly   bail as a downhaul).
               little handles.                              To measure a shroud, start at the center of the
                  That’s why loggers use logger’s tapes, often called   chainplate clevis pin and measure up a short dis-
               Spenser Tapes after their original and still preeminent   tance, say four inches. Mark the turnbuckle there,
               manufacturer. A logger’s tape clips to a belt loop,   with tape or a pen. Tie or clip the tape measure on
               so it’s always out of the way but instantly usable.   below this point, and adjust the string until the “0”
               The tape blade is narrow, flexible, reads on both   point is on the mark. Later on you can deduct for
               sides, and comes in 50- ,75-, and 100-foot lengths.   an ideal turnbuckle length, terminal, etc. (see text).
               Repair kits are available, so an errant saw cut won’t   Then go aloft, both hands free, to the other end. On
               necessitate buying a new blade. After multiple cuts   deck or ashore you can hitch the tape and the item to
               and kinks, clever little refill kits defang the powerful   be measured to the same cleat, post, stanchion, etc.
               spring mechanism for safe, easy reloading.  Adjust the string length to your “0” point, and walk
                  Logger’s tapes are a measurement revelation for   away. By clipping the alligator jaws onto just enough
               sailmakers, carpenters, riggers, and any other trade   of the string to hold securely, you can tug the end
               involving large-scale layout, because they leave both   loose when you’re done, and watch the tape snake its
               hands free to hold tools, pens, or clipboards, and   rapid way back to your side.
               because they can be used without a helper. To accom-  Of course there is nothing the matter with having
               plish the latter, loggers customarily attach a horse-  help while measuring. If it is available, simply clip
               shoe nail or the like to the tape bail. They lightly tap   the end of the tape to a lifeline or handrail before
               the nail into one end of the log, walk away, letting   going up. The person handling this end can get it
               the tape unspool itself, get the measurement, then   later. Or you can send the end to the deck if needed:
               retrieve the tape with a light tug. The nail pulls out   pass a carabiner through the bail, clip the carabiner
               and the tape winds itself up.              around a stay or line that goes to the deck uninter-
                  A nail works well for carpenters and sailmakers,   rupted, and slide it down.
               but is uncool procedure around varnished wooden
               spars and impossible around aluminum ones. But an
               alligator clip and piece of twine make an excellent
               rigger’s alternative. Remove the bit of insulation from
               the clip, then use the point of an awl to open up the
               little tube where the wiring is supposed to fit. With a
               pair of pliers, crimp the tube on around the side of
               the tape bail. Hitch a two-foot length of twine onto
               the end of the bail. With some clips, there is a hole
               near the end into which you can insert an end of the
               bail at the end of the tape. To get access to this end,
               push a fat spike into the bail, so its ends get pushed
               sideways until they pop out of the tape. Warning: use
               a small clamp to secure the tape end; without the bail
               it can easily get sucked into the tape body, and mer-
               rily unwind. Once you have the bail clear, slip the clip



                the new turnbuckle exceeds or falls short of   The new wire will be 4 inches longer than the
                that length, and adjust the new wire length   old one.
                accordingly. If the distance is 1 foot but the   Next, check to see whether shackles have been
                current turnbuckle is ridiculously heavy, the  added aloft or alow to extend the wire; note their
                new turnbuckle might be, say, 8 inches long.  length. See that chainplate, tang, and stem fittings

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