Page 306 - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice
P. 306

likely to give way than the latter. Ratlines are for feet.  inch (3.5-mm) plastic-coated wire with a thimble
                As you near the top and lengths decrease, you’ll  in either end. Make it a little shorter than the space
             find that the rope splices will begin to back into one  between rungs. Lash to the lower rung first, then
             another. When this happens, the sweetest procedure  pull all snug with the lashing to the upper rung. By
             is to switch to rope grommets, making them out of  Clove-Hitching any intervening rope rungs to the
             line one-half the size you’ve been using. Proceed  jack shroud, you support their middles, too. Tra-
             until the space between the wires is narrower than  ditionally, this knot is made with the crossing turn
             your foot.                                  outboard, lower end leading aft. If the Clove Hitch
                                                         slips on the plastic, make a Rolling Hitch instead.
             Options and Variations                          On big, old-style vessels with multiple lower
             Especially on rigs that have shroud eyes seized  shrouds, rope ratlines are Clove-Hitched to the
             in place around the mast, the space between the  intervening shrouds, and any wooden ratlines must
             wires will get baby-foot wide well down from the  be lashed outboard. The forwardmost or “swifter”
             spreaders. One option to gain a little foot room is  shroud is often left bare, as yards and lines chafe
             to slack the shrouds and lash a grooved triangular  against that shroud. Likewise the aftermost shroud
             block in place just below the seizing. The angle at  is often left unrattled if the middle shrouds provide
             the apex should be quite shallow to avoid imposing  a wide enough ladder for proper swarming. A nice
             excessive lateral stress on the seizing. Even so, this  touch is to run every fifth ratline to the aftermost or
             option should only be used on low-stress rigs, and  the swifter shroud, so you can get out of the way of
             only with seizings, never with tangs or mechanical  traffic while conning or sightseeing.
             terminals.                                      With a large crew in a large ship, it is prudent to
                Another technique is to rattle the forward lower  make the first several ratlines heavier than the rest,
             and intermediate shrouds (Figure 7-24), thus escap-  as there’s usually a packed crowd at the bottom.
             ing the “Narrowing Gap” syndrome altogether. This   For vessels of any size, it’s safest to climb rat-
             results in a helical ladder that is quite pleasing in  lines when they’re on the weather side, so they
             appearance. Unlike mast steps, this ladder is never  form a sloping ladder with the wind holding you on
             athwartships, even at the top. The only complica-  instead of a vertical ladder with the wind trying to
             tion lies in leveling the rungs; your axis shifts as you  knock you off.
             go up, so you cannot use the horizon as a level refer-  A final aesthetic/practical note: One frequently
             ence. This is one place aboard where you can use a  sees wooden ratlines secured to shrouds with cable
             builder’s level. Get the boat plumb, even if it means  clamps. Lashed ratlines are graceful and tidy. Cable
             shifting gear on deck to balance your weight in the  clamps are just a heavy, ugly, wire-damaging,
             shrouds. And put a lanyard on the level.    shin-scraping way to avoid doing the job right.
                A second variation, for vessels with topmasts,
             is to rattle the lowers until the gap narrows, then to
             jump over to the topmast backstay for the rest of            TUNING
             the distance.
                Sometimes the space between the lower shrouds  The rig exists to distribute strain from the sails in
             is quite large at the bottom. If you’re worried about a  such a way that the boat moves through the water
             wood rung’s ability to bear weight over a long span,  to optimum effect. But without careful tuning, all
             install a sheer pole at the bottom to double as the  you’ve got is a bunch of wires hanging off the mast.
             first step (Figure 7-25). Or install a “jack shroud,”  This business of bringing the vessel to life involves
             lashed to the middle of the bottom ratline at one  knitting everything together so that, as nearly as
             end and to the second or third wooden rung at the  possible, all strains are shared and no single mem-
             other (Figure 7-26). The jack shroud can be of  ⁄8-  ber takes a disproportionate load.
                                                     1
                                                                                                      285
   301   302   303   304   305   306   307   308   309   310   311