Page 18 - Issue 37

0 Independent suspension Tips: consider how
you want your wheels to sit. Most people set
their alignment to be “perfect” at their ride-
height. But there are some people that would
rather have zero camber when aired-out in a
parking spot, which in turn creates a situation
of positive camber at any height above aired- Tinman’s Tip: I always run ½” or larger because
out. This is preference, but keep in mind that of the “Fun” factor of a fast system; scaring female
tire wear is strongest at high speeds. riders is a treat with fast air systems ;)
0 Free spinning (fl oating) Straight-axle Tips: The length of 4-link bars (or similar) are
Caster is important for steering/handling; important. The longer the bars are, the larger the
should be between the 6-9 degree negative traveling radius, which will create less alignment
(rearward) caster at your ride height. issues throughout the suspensions full line of travel.
0 Drive (fwd or rwd) straight-axle Tips: Pinion angle, Tinman’s Tip: In general your link bars (regardless
in general, should be about 3 degrees lower than of the suspension setup) should be nearest they can
the transmission output shaft at your “Ride- be to parallel to the ground at ride height.
Height” setting. Use a magnetic angle fi nder Adjustability: It is always best to have
to fi ne tune the angles. Do research on your adjustability in your setups. Use adjustable rod ends
particular setup for recommended pinion angles. on your link rods with jam nuts to allow for slight
changes later.
OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER: Tinman’s Tip: if you use a ¾” diameter rod end,

Airline/valve sizing: Sizing here is also a matter you must utilize a minimum of ¾” of the threads
of preference. The larger the sizing, the faster the Tack & test: Always use the tack & test method.
air moves resulting in faster lift & drop. It works as Run the suspension through the full motion of
any other pressurized system works, smaller sizing = travel a few times while tacked. If the small tacks
less fl ow. break, you have binding somewhere that needs
less fl ow.
to be addressed. This method will allow for easy
adjustment/fi xes before it’s completely welded.
Driveshaft must have a slip yoke or expansion
joint of some sort: On a bagged vehicle the
driveshaft must be able to lengthen & shorten
because of the “arc” forced on the travel of the rear-
end. Use of a 2 piece driveshaft & hanger-bearing is
common practice.

CONCLUSION
This is not an exhaustive article of everything
you will need to know in order to bag your ride.
All of these suggestions are for the “Typical” rat
rod project and may not be 100% the best for all
applications. However, this article paired with part
1 should give you most of the essentials to safely
bag your ride. Take your time, do your research, ask
questions, think critically & work hard; this handful
of tips will allow YOUR hands to build the bagged
rat that you have been dreaming of!
To see more on the basics of Air-ride setups feel
free to check out & interact with Tinman 2 Kustoms
on YouTube: www.youtube.com/tinman2kustoms

18 RAT ROD MAGAZINE ISSUE THIRTY-SEVEN

16x18 Airbags2.indd 18 4/19/16 7:25 AM