Page 15 - ALG Issue 3 2023
P. 15

                                 Allotments on a shoestring Woodchip path
   If you’re looking for a great way to keep weeds down in your garden paths without spending a fortune, woodchip is a brilliant and cost- effective option.
SOURCING
Woodchip can be purchased quite cheaply from garden centres; however, an even better option is to speak to
a local tree surgeon, as they often have woodchip as a biproduct of their business and may well be willing to share with you for a nominal fee – or potentially for free! Make sure that
you can guarantee the trees that have been chipped have not been treated with pesticides, or they have not been diseased in a way that could negatively affect your crops.
SPREADING
Spread the woodchip along the path area on your plot. This should only be
done to paths that you have permission to alter. Speak to your association or landowner if you are unsure.
Try to remove as many stones as possible and any perennial weeds that you find growing at the edges before you begin. If you are creating
a new path, measure your beds and pathways out first. A path should be a minimum of 18” wide to accommodate a wheelbarrow. You can lay a weed suppressant, but cardboard is equally as useful (and cheaper!).
If you are concerned about the path spreading, wooden edges can be put
in place to keep the woodchip where
it should be and create a neater edge, although rogue woodchip that does spill over should not have a negative impact on any crops growing in surrounding beds.
MAINTAINING
Woodchip paths need topping up with fresh woodchips every year. All you need to do is remove any plants growing in the woodchip and spread one to
two inches of fresh woodchip on top. They’re as good as new and the fresh woodchip will deter plants and seeds from growing.
       Carbon gold – don’t burn it, bank it by building a dead hedge
The hedge pictured is at the end of our allotment next to the boundary fence, which is backed by blackthorn and dog rose. The dead hedge has absorbed
all my fruit tree and bush prunings for several years now. You need to trim and shorten prunings to keep the dead hedge compact and match height to width to keep it stable.
WHAT IS A DEAD HEDGE?
The RSPB describes a dead hedge as
an upright structure of woody cuttings woven between vertical stakes. The stakes are usually the sturdier branches cut from trees or shrubs. They provide a tangled maze and a perfect hideaway for birds such as blackbirds, robins, wrens and dunnocks to nest and forage within.
A dead hedge is the kind of feature you can build up bit by bit, month by month, whenever you do
a little pruning or tidying around the garden
A dead hedge is the kind of feature you can build up bit by bit, month by month, whenever you do a little pruning or tidying around the garden. By giving your dead hedge its own place in the garden, you can keep the garden tidy and good for wildlife at the same time.
HOW TO:
Cut lengths of branch, 3 to 5cm diameter from garden or plot if possible. Hammer into the ground in two opposite rows about 45 to 60cm apart and at 1 to 1.5m spacings between stakes along each row. Alternatively, you can use simple wooden garden stakes to get started. Begin by pushing woody prunings between the stakes. Over time, add more cuttings to the pile, weaving longer branches between the stakes and among the cuttings.
The wood will gradually breakdown and can be reused as a mulch. Meanwhile, it’s a great home for insects and small mammals and avoids firing the carbon back to the atmosphere!
Tony Urwin
Deputy Representative Yorkshire
       Allotment and Leisure Gardener 15



































































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