Page 3 - 2016 AMA Autumn

Top tips for climbing coaches
1. Enjoy yourself – because the group will know if you are not.
2. In Winter, if the car park is full you are possibly setting off too late.
3. Use rules for novices. Use principles for inter- mediates.
4. People value you for the quality of your feedback, not the amount.
5. ‘Bank time’ by being efficient at the beginning of the day in case you need it at the end.
6. When retreating use the gear you need, not less. You can buy new gear but not a new spine or skull.
7. When you’ve stopped learning it’s time to stop teaching.
8. You wouldn’t like waiting for clients so don’t make them wait for you.
9. Clients don’t always know their own abilities or experience – assess them yourself.
10. Being faster at your belay changeover is better than having to climb fast.
The above tips are an extract from ‘Top tips for climbing coaches’ by Paul Smith which is published by Pesda Press www.pesdapress.com. It contains over 300 top tips and handy hints for climbing coaches. The book is a must have for all aspirant instructors.
Ex Ice Maiden 6 Ex DRAGON’S TROLL 8 Ex DRAGON NORTHERN VALAIS 10 Army HQ on Ojos del Salado 12 Crag of the month: Shipwreck Cove 14 Ex DRAGON REMEC Greenland 16 Book Reviews 22 Photo Competition 24 British Services Dhaulagiri
Medical Research Expedition 2016 26
Musings and Route Description from the
Main Team 26 – Dhaulagiri Basecamp 28
Six of the best 30 Dolomites 32 Location review: Grindelwald 34 Sport Climbing 36 Climbing meets 38 Kit on trial: DMM Switch 44
Tides. Wuthering and erosion. 45
Cover photo: REMEC Ex Dragon Greenland
CONTENTS CONTENTS
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