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international                                                                                                                                                                                         international




                                                                     further up the mountains. Today the lake tends to
                                                                     be small, depending on the winter, and sometimes
                                                                     huge pieces of ice, like icebergs, float on it.


                                                                     Viewpoint 2 – Betternhorn, 2700 m – the most
                                                                     dramatic site (in my view)
                                                                     Betten is completely different from Fiesch: not a
                                                                     village, but giant modern parking lot surrounded
                                                                     by mountains. The village itself, Bettmeralp, is
                                                                     2000 meters higher and car-free. From here you
                                                                     take a gondola to a still higher point – the foot of
                                                                     the Bettmerhorn. To catch it, you must cross the
                                                                     whole charming mountain village – it is probably
                                                                     my favourite after Zermatt, which is visible from
                                                                     here.  In fact, the local villages and some hotels
                                                                     advertise this, saying “there is no need to go to
                                                                     Zermatt  to  see  the  Matterhorn,  you  can  see  it
              Dramatic crevasses  world.  You  will  see  the  nameplate  “UNESCO   from Bettmertalp”. Actually, the village has one
                 Aletsch Glacier  lounge”,  and  stones  everywhere.  Those  are  the   of the best views of the Matterhorn.
                   view point 2  “lucky stones” of the Aletsch Glacier, and there
                               is a legend that you can use them to let go of your   As you cross the mountain village you will see
                               worries. If you take one of the stones and write   nameplates  indicating  the  lakes,  as  well  as  the   The last train stop of the Aletsch Arena: Mörel, a   something one expects at 2000 meters altitude.    Viewpoint 2
                               your worry on it, then deposit it at one of the   long glass tunnel up to the huge Bettmeralp lake.     picturesque small town. Just in front of the train                           Betternhorn
                               three summits of the Aletsch Arena (Eggishorn,   Finally, you will see the gondola that will take      station you will see the geological museum and   Why is there a villa in such a wild place? You may   2700 m
                               Bettmerhorn or Eggishorn) it symbolises leaving   you to the Bettmerhorn viewpoint.                    the  cable  cars/gondola.  Take  the  big  cable  car   be surprised to learn it was the favourite place of
                               your problems behind you on the mountain. If                                                           that brings you to Riederalp Mitte. You will have   King Edward VII, Churchill, and Tyndall.  What
                               you are sceptical, wait until you get there and see   This second viewpoint deserves more time. There   to backtrack slightly - that is why I suggested you   fascinated them about this place?  You can learn
                               how you feel – the sensation is incredible. You   is  a  panoramic  restaurant  with  an  astonishing   walk from Bettmeralp - to find the gondola to   this - and about one of the most mythical places
                               are above the clouds, feeling the strength of the   360-degree  view,  a  view  platform  and  several   Moosfluh. If you are there in summer, you will   in  Switzerland  –  if  you  read  my  article  in  the
                               Glacier, and in front of you are the Matterhorn   different view places. If you are an adventurer,     see the Hoohfluh gondola, but need to continue   next issue.
                               and  Mont  Blanc.  All  this  certainly  puts  your   you might want to climb the mountain, but be     further until you see the Moosfluh.
                               worries into perspective!             careful – it is difficult, marked blue to indicate                                                      Practical tips:
                               However, do not get lost in the feeling - if you   that  special training and shoes are required, so   Moosfluh is the third viewpoint for the Aletsch   You can make the trip by car, driving to Fiesch
                               want to get to point 2, you should not spend more   perhaps  you  should  keep  it  for  another  time.   Glacier.  Some  like  it  best,  because  it  is  much   and taking cable cars and goldolas, in which case
                               than an hour before returning. It may be worth   But if you are just a visitor like me, you should     lower and closer to the ice. There is even a path   you may wish to purchase the 55CHF Aletsch
                               coming back sometime for a short tour around   go around all the viewpoints. This is the most          leading to the glacier itself, but do not take this   discovery  one-day  ticket  covering  the  whole
                               Fiesheralp,  to  enjoy  the  view  of  Matterhorn,   dramatic  view  of  the  glacier  as from  here  you   without  a  guide.  If  you  want  some  adventure,   Aletsch  Arena  including  unlimited  cable  cars/
                               see the paragliders, and the very nice village of   can  see  the  deep  crevasses.    The  view  of  the   you  can  take  an  easy  30-minute  hike  on  the   gondolas and the train between Mörel and Fiesch.
                               Fiesch  below.    However,  for  now,  take  a  train   surrounding glaciers and mountain-peaks is also   mountain  and  reach  the  smaller  cable  car  to   It allows you to park your car in Fiesch, Mörel
                               back  to  Betten  -  or  drive  to  Betten  Parking,   breath-taking in its drama and tragic beauty.   return.  Hoohfluh  is  closest  to  the  glacier,  but   or Blatten for the whole day. Alternatively you
                               direction of Brig - in the return direction.  It is                                                    best done with a Rideralp guide. From Hoohfluh   can purchase a Swiss day railpass which covers
                               twenty minutes’ drive, or eighteen by train.                                                           you will see the Aletsch forest, which is part of   the train and includes also all villages (car free)
                                                                     There are stones her as well, and also a museum.
                                                                     Walk around and spend at least an hour to get a                  this UNESCO heritage site.             up to an altitude of 2200 m, so you only have to
                               Optional:  there  is  one  spectacular  site  close  to   sense of the glacier from this point. Afterwards, if                                buy a half-fare ticket to the highest viewpoints -
                               Eggishorn,  that  deserves  to  a  special  mention   you are travelling by car, you need to go back down   So, now you have a full impression of the glacier,   Eggishorn, Bettmerhorn and Moosfluh.  You will
                               –  the  glacial  lake  Marjelen  (Gr  Marjelensee,   to Betten, but otherwise you can enjoy reaching   and  can  decide  what  exactly  you  will  explore   need to start your journey early to be in Fiesch
                               2350  meters).  You  will  not  be  able  to  reach  it   the next town by an easy 40 minute walk, either via   next  time,  what  will  be  feasible  to  hike,  or  be   by 10 am if you intend to cover all the above,
                               unprepared, but could consider making a special   two lakes, or by a road that links Bettmeralp with   worth  seeing  again.  Theoretically  your  day   as the high gondolas close at 4.30 pm in spring
                               journey to feel the living glacier from there.  If you   Riederalp. If you prefer the car or train, go down   will be over, but you might want to take a walk   and autumn and 5.30 pm in summer. However,
                               take a guide you can even go out on the ice for   and it will be only one stop (direction of Brig).    over  to  Riederalp  to  see  this  tiny  and  elegant   the cable cars from the mountain villages to the
                               several hours. This lake is a treasure, but also a                                                     town. And while crossing look up: you will not   railway work late, so you can walk up to the Villa
                               treat. As the melting water frequently destroyed   Viewpoint 3 – Moosfluh-Hoohfluh 2300 m              believe  your  eyes.  A  gorgeous  luxury  villa  is   and explore it on the same day.                           •
                               the town of Fiesch, the villagers had to relocate


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