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                Difficult approach   chose the easiest approach. A gondola from  luxury  Junhgfrau-Eggishorn  Grandhotel              but  on  the  opposite  side,  close  to  Moosfluh  was lovely and sunny after the rains, and the   We see the entrace
                   to the glacier  Fiesch  carried  us  to  Fiescheralp,  taking  us  hotel which opened the Belle Epoque of alpine   (described in viewpoint 3, Diva No.2/2021). I  first  hour  of  the  trek  was  easier  than  I  had   to the cave_but 40
                               up  into  the  cloud  and  I  hoped  it  would  be  tourism at the foot of the Eggishorn in 1856.      also remembered reading about this approach  expected. Perhaps that was because the guide   more minutes of
                 Last effots - after   sunnier  ahead.  Once  past  the  cloud  we  saw  It  was  incredibly  popular  for  decades,  even   and searched for it, but there was nothing on  made it easy for us – he was one of the most   difficult decent
               those huge bulders   magnificent  scenery  –  the  Fiescher  Glacier,  though it was only accessible via a mule track   any map. However, I found another photo of  experienced I have ever met, and seemed to
                 there will be the   second  largest  in  Europe,  to  our  right,  and  and bridle path. It would be difficult to believe   an intensely turquoise ice Palais with people  know every stone and bush.   Restaurant after
                        glacier                                                                                                                                                                                     the tunnel before
                               the  tunnel  in  front  of  us.  We  went  though  such a luxury hotel could exist in so wild a        inside.  It  had  huge  ceilings  and  fairy-tale                             the descent to the
                               the kilometer-long rock tunnel and emerged  place, if not for the ruins and the postcards              turquoise walls. I searched again for where this  It was a long descent down to the Glacier. I   glacier_Marjela
                               into an open area. A restaurant was the only  from  that  time.  It  became  more  accessible          beauty could be found, and found a record of a  knew it was under what we could see and I
                               building in the middle of a vast open space;  when  a  cable  car  was  built  nearby  in  1968,       trek to the ice caves of Aletsch. I contacted the  was no longer surprised by the optical illusion
                               we took coffee and prepared for our meeting  but soon after the hotel burnt to the ground              guide whose name was on the photo, to ask if  of closeness. We followed the red and white
                               with the Glacier. Hundreds of meters from the  and was never rebuilt. I hope one day it will           what I had seen was real.              marked path through the magnificent Aletsch
                               restaurant we saw the edge, which, from that  be; the cable car is now a gondola, and this                                                    Forest – a UNESCO world heritage site. After
                               height, did not seem too intimidating. A closer  is such a fascinating and enigmatic place. A          He  responded  quickly  and  sent  me  the  trek  the forest, the path is marked blue and white,
                               look, however, showed that we had to descend  rebuilt  hotel  would  be  precious  for  nature-        itinerary,  not  on  any  map.  I  realized  that  I  meaning to take care, and we continued our
                               over steep, wet rocks polished smooth by the  lovers, hikers and maybe, as in the past, for            would be privileged to be shown the ‘secret’  descent  in  a  different  landscape,  until  we
                               retreating glacier. We had to slide and crawl  people with lung trouble as the air is so pure          caves. I had to go, even though I was aware it  turned off the path towards the huge glacier. I
                               part of the way, and the closer we approached,  and healing.                                           would be a difficult trek. The guide reassured  realized that the real trek started here, but with
                               the more we realised how gigantic it was.                                                              me that I would not need special equipment,  good explanations and this guide, it did not
                                                                     What  colour  is  the  ice?  Blue?  No:  deep                    but that we should go slowly and carefully.  So  seem that difficult and we were all confident.
                               Suddenly,  we  saw  the  entrance  to  the  cave.  turquoise!                                          I went.
                               Another  group  was  just  returning,  so  we  Since that day at the cave the Aletsch ice has                                                 The scenery we saw was invisible from above,
                               used  their  route  to  finally  reach  the  cave,  magnetized  me.  I  feel  as  if  it  is  living,  and   Not  shown  on  the  maps  –  secret  place  and unique.  It was like being on another planet
                               and it was breathtaking. It felt like the living,  asking us for help. I wanted to feel it more,       He proposed we joined a family from Berne  with no plant life, surrounded by orange and
                               breathing,  beating  heart  of  the  Glacier,  but  touch the real pulse, get closer to its heart, and,   for  security,  and  I  accepted  his  suggestion  brown  walls,  huge  boulders  and,  and  green,
                               the  impression  was  tragic,  as  if  the  Glacier  if possible, to save it. At the very least I wanted   with  pleasure.  Later,  I  learned  that  the  trek  utterly  green,  lakes.  Perhaps,  all  this  was
                               was crying – tears were falling from the top,  to raise awareness about it, to alert people to         was a anniversary gift from the family to the  covered  with  the  Glacier  a  century  ago.  We
                               and was not possible to go in as that meant  its peril and discover what secrets and beauty            parents;  their  long-held  dream.  The  family  saw crystals in the boulders. There was a place
                               that  part  of  the  ceiling  could  fall  down  any  it  hides.  When  I  was  researching,  my  eyes   were delightful, and I was happy to be with  where two of the green lakes resembled cat’s
                               moment. We were speechless, looking at the  were suddenly captured by amazing photos of                them.  As  we  were  starting  early,  I  arrived  eyes and it was called Chatzulecher, which can
                               natural blue ice inside the dark cave. Above  a dark blue or even unreal turquoise colour.             in  Riederalp  the  night  before.  I  went  up  to  be translated as “cat’s eyes”, perhaps because of
                               us, the Glacier was dark grey, as if no longer  It  was  unbelievable,  and  it  was  somewhere        Moosfluh to check where the cave could be as I  the lakes. We continued past brown boulders
                               living, but inside it shone a strong blue, as if its  inside the Aletsch Glacier but clearly not what   still could not believe it was nearby. Previously  and  more  lakes,  blue  and  green.  Then  the
                               pulse was still beating. From where we stood  I had seen. I wanted to know where it was, and           I had stayed at the Villa Cassel, more of which  glacier and its caves was before us. All this was
                               we could see that, although invisible from the  how it was possible to go so deeply under the          in a later article, but this time I stayed in the  titanic, huge; we were tiny, dots.
                               top, this entrance was 4-6 meters high; it only  ice. Intrigued, I started to search.                  very beautiful Walliser Spycher Swiss Chalet-
                               looked small because of the scale of what was                                                          style hotel with exceptional hospitality. I was  True guardian of the ice palace - Defender
                               around it. We returned, overwhelmed.   I thought I had seen everything the Glacier                     still  very  worried  about  the  trek,  however,  of the Glacier
                                                                     had to offer but could not work out where this                   because I knew it would be challenging.   We  entered  a  cave.  It  was  grey  outside,  but
                               Historical excursion: the ruined Junhgfrau-  place was. I did remember a discussion when                                                      inside it shone blue. Overwhelmed, we tried
                               Eggishorn Grandhotel                  I was staying in the area, mentioning another                    The  next  morning  we  met  at  the  gondola  to  enter  other  caves  to  see  the  ice  inside.
                               On our way back we stopped at an interesting  approach from a different location closer to the         station. I was introduced to the Bernese family,  However,  the  real  miracle  was  ahead.  We
                               place – in the wildness are the remains of the  Glacier tongue. This was not in Märjelensee,           and we started. The gondola trip to Moosfluh  found a cave which led deep inside – a natural




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