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12  AN EXILE OF THE MIND        CASTING OFF WITH A BANG                         13
































 Le Voyageur lowered into the water for the first time.  The yacht had plenty of headroom and could sleep five crew.


 seagulls skywards into the storm in a  these young servicemen enjoyed our   boat had to be untethered. This wild  the wind’s breath in our sails. A fair
 shrieking din. Reed-hatted fishermen  harbour excursions on their days off.   gesture  was interpreted  as a bad  breeze  to waft this precious ship
 fell prostrate in their sampans hitched  They scrubbed  the  decks, polished   omen for the voyage ahead.   over a calm turquoise sea. To sip the
 cautiously to the shore.   the brass and smuggled booze from   Rain continued to dribble down  French Consul’s gift of wine out of
 Seventeen  blasts  echoed  across  the officers’ mess in return for a few   the collars of the now rain-sodden  the  three-sided  bottles  and watch
 the bay. A salute to send off generals  hours of sailing. A welcome  break   gathering as they waved and shouted  the sun plop into the ocean with a
 and  admirals  in medal-jingling  from monotonous soldiering in the   their goodbyes. To stare dewy-eyed  sigh. The Consul had earlier asked
 tradition with four extra blasts  Colony.  Their  snooty  officers,  not   at this  motley  crew  about  to sally  to join the voyage to Manila but his
 reserved for royalty. Salutes have an  invited, later glass-housed them for   forth into a stomach-churning sea.  wife  pleaded  with  us  not  to  make
 odd number of bangs following naval  misuse of cannonry.   Perhaps thinking dark  thoughts  of  her a widow so early in life.
 tradition dating back to the 1600s.   This resounding and unexpected   rogue waves towering mast high to   Most of the crew were strangers
 An  even number was considered  tribute  signalled  our departure.  I   come crashing down on our heads.  to open water, and their skipper a
 unlucky, signalling the demise of a  yelled  directions  for the  mooring   Hong Kong to  Manila  was  an  stranger to sailing. Not the ideal
 captain or master gunner at sea.   lines to be cast off, making frenzied   eight-day  sail with not an acre of  weather to set out on our maiden
 This  spectacular performance  cut-throat signs to friends on the   sod  in between  to set  foot  on. For  voyage. A sobering thought as the
 was arranged by English bootnecks  jetty. They stared open-mouthed in   months we  had looked  forward to  shoreline faded to a dark smudge
 earlier befriended.  Far from home  alarm  before  realising the leaping   skipping across the  ocean to catch  on the horizon. But then an ocean
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