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50  AN EXILE OF THE MIND    THE FLYING PRIEST OF CAMIGUIN                        51
































 Ternate in the Spice Islands, Indonesia.   Terraced rice fields in Indonesia.


 the high waves. We pushed on into   And I, as guest of the local Chinese   of Indonesian. The hall buzzed with
 quieter waters to the Spice Islands,   optometrist, stayed in  Ternate for a   the anticipation of a thrilling lecture
 650 nautical miles to the south.   well-earned break and to explore the   I was about to give. To enlighten the
 Ternate Island and neighbouring   island on his motor scooter.   community about the  scourge of
 Tidmore were once the world’s only   Several  VOC (Dutch  East  India   pirates threatening innocent yachties
 major producers  of  cloves.  Alfred   Company)  coins, dating  from the   like myself on the high seas.
 Russell Wallace wrote a pioneering   1730s, were  found  near a   My  trousers,  colourfully
 account of evolution in 1858 ─ the   ruin  where  I  attempted  to   striped, with beard and hair
 ‘Ternate Essay’, famously  sent  to   snorkel in a half a metre of   shoulder  length,  I naively
 Charles  Darwin who graciously   water. This ‘treasure’ was   resembled one of the buc-
 published it alongside his own.   used  during Dutch  control   caneers I was talking about.
 A sirenic call from the ‘Island of   and,  unfortunately, made of   Only the eye-patch was miss-
 Women’ in north Sulawesi was  too   copper and not of gold.   ing.  Mercifully  coming  to  the  end
 much of a temptation for  Steve to   I stood shyly, shifting from one   of this fascinating topic, there  was
 ignore. Taking  Patrick as crew, he   foot to the other, before a large   a burst of applause from those who
 took  Le Voyageur in search of the   audience. Their command of English   understood not a word, and a puz-
 Only the eye-patch was missing.  island over 150 nautical miles away.   matched only by my limited grasp   zled look from those who could.
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