Page 184 - 2003 - Atlantic Islands

The sky remained overcast and occasionally it rained and then it would clear briefly.

At the shoreline, we saw steamer ducks with whirligig wings apparently trying to lift

them off the water - but it never works, steamers are too heavy to fly. So what they

are really doing is a puzzlement. There were pied oystercatchers and rock

cormorants, both adults with white breasts and all-black juveniles.

The Magellanic penguins are small and have two vivid white stripes curving around

the sides of their heads. They have much more skin showing around their eyes and

beaks than other species because they live in warmer climates and need the exposed

dermis layer to give off heat so they can regulate their body temperatures. These

penguins are kin to the Galapagos penguin, the jackass penguin of South Africa, the

Humboldt penguin of the west coast of South America and the fairy penguin of New

Zealand and Australia. All are very similar in their markings and in their skin exposure.

The ones we saw today did not have any chicks with them but we do not know if that

is unusual for this time of year or not.

As we walked on towards the McGill Settlement (the farm complex of one family -

not a town or village), we saw some turkey vultures - very much a surprise.

Apparently, they are occasional visitors to the Falklands though not necessarily

regular ones. The walk itself was very pleasant over gently undulating ground with

remarkable views both left (on the sea side) and right (on the upslope side).

The Settlement consisted of several outbuildings in addition to the farmhouse and a

wonderful “secret garden” created by the many cedar and other trees planted as a

windbreak for the house and its contiguous land. There were some very unexpected

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