Page 20 - 2008 NZ SUB ANTARCTIC ISLANDS - SMARTPHONE

Chapter 9. Dunedin

Of course our visit to a very English city was bound to be balanced by a visit to a very Scottish
one: Christchurch to Dunedin accomplished that feat. The statue to Bobby Burns at the very
center of town was a clear testimonial to the Scottish allegiance in Dunedin. Instead of an
impressive Anglican church, we now saw the First Presbyterian Church take a dominant position
over the rest of the city. The Settler’s Museum cleared any skepticism regarding the Scottish
influence here. There were portraits of the first arrivals in the area—all Scotsmen. Journals and
diaries covering the terrible voyages necessary to reach this new world were displayed
prominently. The history of the Scottish Church was well explained. And if all that had not
been enough, as we were leaving Dunedin, we were serenaded by a wonderful Bagpipe Band.
Other instruments were combined and it was actually an entertaining experience. There were
drums naturally as well as a saxophone and an accordion. Scotland the Brave rang out loud and
brassily as we cleared the harbor.

Taiarora Head

However, our real reason for visiting Dunedin was not to savor the Scots flavor of the city. Our
purpose to visit another preserve for native birds: Taiarora Head. This clifftop headland is
managed for the protection and propagation of the Royal Albatross, though other birds do fly
through and use the land for resting. Only the Royals nest there however. Again, DOC has
declared limited access to the enclosed viewing platform at the edge of the cliff. We were first
ushered into the Visitors Center where we viewed an interesting film about the albatross life cycle
and the purposes of this Preserve. We were also educated about the need for silence even in the
viewing platform and certainly on the steep pathway up to that place. Only 18 visitors at a time
are allowed there and only 18 on the pathway leading upwards. Furthermore, each visitor has
only 15 minutes to gaze out at the albatross and other birds. A fence keeps predators off the cliff-
face and prevents humans from walking over into the area. Further, there is a caretaker 24 hours
a day to prevent vandalism or other intrusions.

Because the wind had picked up while we were visiting a faux Scottish castle (Larnach built in
th
the early 20 century by a very rich Scot), we were sure that we would see some really marvelous
flying feats while out at the Head. And, as we struggled up the steep hill, burdened by our extra
weight gained by eating the most delicious scones and clotted cream together with wonderful
cream tea, we were inspired by the acrobatic aviation of the enormous albatross. Several were
returning from the sea to relieve their partner who had been sitting on the eggs without any food
for several days. They rode the air gusts gracefully and then came to shuddering landings near
the nest. Other birds like cormorants and gulls also glided through the busy sky above the Head.
When we reached the viewing platform, we could look down over the cliffside and see the
nesting birds and the exchange of partners. The now freed bird would run awkwardly for several
steps with those lengthy wings outstretched and then just step off into the air as the gusts lifted
them safely into the sky. It was magnificent to see, even for so short a time.

Taiaroa is one of only three breeding places in New Zealand for the Royal Albatross so it is easy
to see why DOC is so careful of it and manages it so closely. Once again, we were so pleased to
visit such a special wildlife preserve.

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