Page 184 - J. C. Turner "History and Science of Knots"

A History of Life Support Knots 175
When making a long hoist by hand, it is often convenient to have a de-
vice which will automatically hold the load to allow changing the grip or the
attachment point of tackle. Some of the friction hitches have been used for
this purpose, but they seem to need constant watching.

Fig. 49. Double Italian Hitch Fig. 50. Alpine Clutch Fig. 51. Stuflesser Hitch
Two hitches that seem to need less attention have been devised by climbers:
the Alpine Clutch (Fig. 50) [13, p. 2441 [14, p. 1371 [29, p. 521 and the Stuflesser
Hitch (Fig. 51) [13, p. 243][14, p. 1381. Both use a pair of karabiners which
need to be selected to have the appropriate size and shape. If the end is
pulled in the direction of the arrow, the rope will move fairly freely, though
the friction developed will reduce the efficiency of any tackle used. If the end
is released, the load pulls down on the rope, jamming it; the jam is readily
released when hauling is resumed.
The Alpine Clutch, in particular, can be used in the place of a Prusik Hitch
and sling in a number of applications [29, p. 1431, but it must be remembered
that it works in one way only and the movement of the rope through the knot
cannot be reversed without a very great degree of difficulty.

Other Applications of Life Support Ropes and Knots

Abseiling has developed as a sport in its own right in some places, though few
can maintain interest in it for long if it is not combined with other activities.
However, abseiling is the major ropework component of canyoning, a growing
adventure sport in the French Alps and Pyrenees, the Spanish Pyrenees, the
Australian Blue Mountains and perhaps elsewhere where appropriate terrain
exists. This sport involves following down steep and narrow watercourses,