Page 329 - J. C. Turner "History and Science of Knots"

320 History and Science of Knots

of the social scale, crochet was popular with canal-boat workers and
gypsies because it was so easy to do while travelling [10, p. 5].

History of crochet

Where did crochet come from? When was it developed? Given the rela-
tive simplicity of the technique, one would expect that it was the precursor
to knitting, and that it perhaps antedated weaving as well. Surprisingly, it
seems to be one of the last textile production methods to be invented! Many
popular crochet pattern books cite a history for crochet dating back to early
Mesopotamian civilizations, where it allegedly played a significant role in re-
ligion. This mythological origin appears to be due to a book by Heinz Edgar
Kiewe, The Sacred History of Knitting [9], that contains many exciting spec-
ulations that are-unfortunately-not supported by any reputable evidence.
Similarly, Annie Potter reports the existence of an Egyptian `threadwork' spec-
imen in the Benaki National Museum (Athens), dated A.D. 900-1100, that is
similar in appearance to a common crochet pattern (the `chevron', a rippled
effect popular for afghans) [15]. Unfortunately, there is no proof that this piece
was indeed produced by a crochet-like technique; and even if it had been, the
method had not survived into modern times.
A more reliable, though less spectacular, estimate is that crochet was
developed in Western Europe during the 16th century. It most likely developed
as a form of `tambour' work (tambour uses a similar hooked implement to
produce crochet-like chain stitches anchored in a piece of cloth, giving an
effect similar to embroidered chain stitches). If tambouring was worked onto a
parchment background, `chain lace' could be created by ripping the parchment
away. One of the earliest printed references to chain lace is in an inventory of
Queen Elizabeth I's household effects, where she was reported to own a `gowne
that was exquisitely laid aboute with small cheyne laces of gold' [10, p. 10].
The speculation is that at some point it was realized that these chains could be
produced without the parchment background. The term `crochet' is derived
from the French `croc', or hook. By the late 1700s the simple craft of `crochet
en l'air' (literally, `crochet in the air'), or tambour work without a support, was
a fashionable hobby for middle- and upper-class French ladies. The double and
treble stitches appear to have developed in the late 18th century, perhaps from
a slip with a tangle of thread on a hook. Their utility was quickly recognized,
and by the early 1800s the basic stitch and construction techniques of crochet
were well-established.
As a hobby, crochet experienced a boom of astonishing proportions dur-
ing the Victorian age. From the late 1830s, countless crocheted objects poured
from the hooks of middle class ladies. Lace was especially popular-both to