Page 55 - D. Raleigh "Knots and ropes for climbers"

The above technique will work in most situations, unless there is high wind. Then, a thrown rope will
likely blow aroundsometimes straight upand snag behind a flake. Avoid this distressing scenario by
loosely tucking the rope, ends first, in a pack. Have the first person down wear the pack, leaving it
open so that the rope can unwind a bit at a time. Once the first person is down, he should retain the
rope ends and hold the rope steady for the second person.

7. On Cord

We don't think much about cord, yet use it almost as often as the rope, and like the rope, we depend
on it absolutely.

Cord is the small stuff we thread through nuts and use to fashion Prusiks and occasionally runners.
Useful diameters are 3 to 9 millimeters. Cord, also called perlon, is made the same as kernmantle lead
rope, and in the case of the 8- to 9-millimeter diameters, it is lead rope wound onto spools. Three- to 5-
millimeter cord makes good shoelaces and keeper cords for nut tools, hammers, drills, and so on. Five-
to 7-millimeter cord is ideal Prusik material, but certain 5.5- and 7-millimeter are designed just for
slinging nuts and are braided from special high-strength and hard-to-cut Spectra or Kevlar yarns.
Given a choice between the two, get Spectra. Kevlar, while bulletproof, weakens with repeated
flexing, much like clothes hanger wire. Spectra holds up better. Do not use Spectra or Kevlar for
Prusiksit is too stiff to grip the rope. Some big-wall climbers use 7-millimeter cord for haul lines. It's
lightweight but painful to grip and gives a fast and hot rappel, should the need arise.

Do much trad, ice, or wall climbing, and you will thank the cordalette every time you rig a belay. The
cordalette is a loop made from 20 feet of 7-millimeter cord tied with a Double Fisherman's. In use, you
clip the cordalette through each point of protection, gather together a loop from each point, and tie
these together with a Figure Eight on a Bight. Clip into the Figure Eight with two carabiners, gates
reversed and opposed, or locking.