Page 65 - D. Raleigh "Knots and ropes for climbers"

Glossary

B
belay: to secure a person or an object with rope.

belay plate or device: a slotted metal (usually aluminum) device that cinches onto the rope to provide
friction for belaying, lowering, or rappeling.

bend: a knot that ties two rope, cord, or webbing ends together.

bight: the slack length of rope between its two ends.

C
carabiner: snap-links, typically of aluminum, although steel is common for use in high-wear situations,
such as indoor gyms. Carabiners come in various shapes, the most common of which are the oval, D,
modified D, and HMS (pearabiner). They may be nonlocking or locking.

CEN: a European testing organization; similar to the UIAA.

cinch: to pull a knot tight.

cord: slang for rope, but also used to describe perlon, or rope smaller than 9 millimeters in diameter.

cordage: all rope and cord, but originally applied only to twist-construction rope.

cordalette: a large loop of 7-millimeter cord used primarily to equalize belay anchors.

core: the center of a kernmantle rope. Also called the kern.

D

daisy chain: a loop of webbing with pockets tied or sewn throughout its length to provide numerous
anchor points.

double rope: a rope designated by the UIAA or CEN as safe for lead climbing only when used in
double strands. Both strands of a double rope need not be clipped to every protection point. Do not
confuse double ropes with twin ropes.

dynamic rope: a rope designed to stretch. All climbing ropes are dynamic to absorb much of the
impact generated in a fall.

F

fall factor: the number used to determine the severity of a fall, determined by dividing the distance of
the fall by the amount of rope that catches that fall. The higher the number, the harder the fall. A 20-
foot fall on 10 feet of rope has a fall factor of 2 (20 feet divided by 10 feet).

falls held: the number of UIAA or CEN test falls that a rope can sustain before breaking. Each UIAA
test fall has a fall factor of 1.78.

finish: to pull a knot taut. Unfinished or loose knots are dangerous, as they can come untied and are
weaker than finished knots.