Page 266 - Buck Tilton - Outward Bound Ropes, Knots, and Hitches 2 ed.
P. 266
main sections of the rope.
Alpine Butterfly
FORMS A FIXED LOOP IN THE STANDING PART OF A
ROPE
This knot with the loveliest of names creates a fixed loop at
any point in a rope, a loop to which anything may be clipped
or otherwise attached. It is often used in climbing as a knot
to which a climber may be attached to the rope. It is
especially popular in glacier travel, where it is common to
find three climbers attached to one rope, one climber at
each end and one in the middle.
Alpine Butterfly: Step 1