Page 266 - Buck Tilton - Outward Bound Ropes, Knots, and Hitches 2 ed.
P. 266

main sections of the rope.








                Alpine Butterfly


                FORMS  A  FIXED  LOOP  IN  THE  STANDING  PART  OF  A
                ROPE



                This knot with the loveliest of names creates a fixed loop at
                any point in a rope, a loop to which anything may be clipped
                or otherwise attached. It is often used in climbing as a knot

                to  which  a  climber  may  be  attached  to  the  rope.  It  is
                especially  popular  in  glacier  travel,  where  it  is  common  to

                find  three  climbers  attached  to  one  rope,  one  climber  at
                each end and one in the middle.







                                      Alpine Butterfly: Step 1
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