Page 92 - Forbes Magazine-September 30, 2018

FORBES
FACT & COMMENT STEVE FORBES
Restaurants:
passion, the kind of work that “has you the intelligence to play football on the
excited on Sunday nights.” Critical to this professional level,” Tamny notes. “Players Go, Consider, Stop
“luxury” is a growing economy. “The freer have to memorize a playbook the size of
people are to earn as much as they can and the Yellow Pages.” Great football players— Edible enlightenment from our eatery
keep it, the more likely it is that every- or those great at any sport—are intense experts and colleagues Richard Nalley,
Monie Begley and Randall Lane,
one will have the opportunity students of the game. Ath- as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.
to make a living from his own leticism isn’t enough. In fact,
unique skills and intelligence.” given the hard work and the z Loring Place
The way the author—a immense physical and cerebral 21 West 8th St. (Tel.: 212-388-1831)
After two decades at top NYC restaurants, chef
longtime and valued contribu- discipline necessary to master Dan Kluger has his own place. Kluger’s combina-
tor to both Forbes magazine high-level college football, the tions of ingredients, spices and herbs create culi-
and forbes.com—illustrates this sport, says the author, should nary magic in bursts of flavor and color. Begin with
small plates of hummus and radishes, or thin, crisp
optimistic viewpoint is exciting be a major. zucchini fries with lemon and Parmesan dressing;
and original. Sports is one area Tamny entertainingly dis- or try a wood-grilled broccoli salad with orange
that’s been expanding as we’ve cusses the creation of numer- and pistachios. Amazing pizzas, perfect for sharing,
are made in wood-burning ovens. From the grill
become more affluent, with ous new kinds of jobs, such comes moist Arctic char or delicious Pekin duck.
vastly greater needs at all levels as coaches for teams of video Delve into a divine cookie box with your coffee.
of play for coaches, assistants, training game players (one competition can attract z Peasant
specialists, scouts and nerdy number tens of thousands of fans) and dog walk- 194 Elizabeth St., between Prince & Spring
crunchers to better evaluate players and ers, as well as the rising remuneration streets (Tel.: 212-965-9511)
prospects (the fascinating subject of (often in six figures) and sophistication of Brick walls, old pews and 1950s metal diner chairs
create a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. The aspara-
Moneyball, both the book and the movie), traditional, once seemingly simple tasks gus with cheese and egg is hot and flavorsome,
as well as for agents, lawyers, marketers, such as caddying (pro golf caddies are the lamb chops are cooked to perfection, and the
publicists and broadcasters—not to men- trusted and crucial advisors to players). polpi with hot peppers is perfectly piquant. The
cioccolato is dense and delicious, and the panna
tion the simultaneous explosion in infra- With affluence, people’s tastes for finer cotta is sublime.
structure, such as ever better and more things expands. Costco is today the big- z Lavo
sophisticated equipment, player-monitor- gest importer of French wine in the world. 39 East 58th St. (Tel.: 212-750-5588)
ing devices, playing fields and stadiums. Tamny closes his enjoyable work with Just off Madison, this spot offers an enjoyable
Many people still regard football as a this thought: “In an economy of individ- dining experience, especially when the weather
is balmy enough for sitting outside. Portions are
game of lumbering semi-Neanderthals. uals, we’re all better off when each person generous. Try the jumbo shrimp, the oysters on
The NFL and serious college football are gets to pursue what most amplifies his the half-shell or the charred octopus with celery,
both tough and cerebral. “Few of us have unique skills and intelligence.” endive, fennel and red wine vinaigrette—all first-
rate. The spicy, crispy chicken Dominick draws
raves every time. Make sure you have company
The Second Coming: A Thriller to share the marvelous 20-layer chocolate and
peanut butter mascarpone cake.
John Heubusch (Howard Books, $26) z Houseman
508 Greenwich St., between Spring & Watts
This fantastic tale of mystery the nexus of a global con- streets (Tel.: 212-641-0654)
and conspiracy will have you spiracy. A clone has been Concrete walls, white counters and wood-top
tables make this a pleasant place to enjoy an un-
flipping pages at a breakneck created from DNA contained pretentious meal. The dressed (deviled) eggs and
pace to find out what happens within the shroud that carries the cucumber spears dipped in crushed sunflow-
ers with olive oil on the side are refreshing starters.
next, with your heart racing as a plague aptly named “the The French onion sandwich is a tasty grilled cheese
if you were running the 400- Devil’s Sweat.” The aim of the with crispy caramelized onions melted within. Add
meter race at the Olympics. conspiracy is the ultimate cat- chicken to the radicchio salad with blue-cheese
dressing and you’ll still have room for the house spe-
The novel is a sequel to last aclysm: to wipe out human-
cial pound cake or the peanut tart with sour cream.
year’s spectacular bestseller The ity via this unholy laboratory z Lusardi’s
Shroud Conspiracy. In this sec- experiment. The race is on to
1494 Second Ave., between 77th & 78th
ond installment Heubusch con- save the human race. streets (Tel.: 212-249-2020)
tinues the story of Jon Bondurant, who, Does this apocalyptic plot sound too Luigi and Mauro Lusardi, chef Claudio Meneghini
despite being a skeptic of the legend, outlandish? It’s a tribute to Heubusch’s and partner Imer Djekaj have continued to pack this
found himself investigating the Shroud considerable gifts as a compelling story- place for more than 35 years with their authentic,
delicious Northern Italian cuisine. Pastas are lus-
of Turin, a relic many believers take to be teller that the characters and events feel cious, from creamy rigatoni cipullo (with sausage
the burial cloth of Christ. all too real. and prosciutto) to tangy linguine all’ammiraglia
(seafood in lobster sauce). Veal Martini and fegato GRANGER COLLECTION
Bondurant quickly realizes that the I have only one question for the author: alla Veneziana (liver) are both sautéed to perfection.
shroud is not only authentic but also When does the next book come out? F Finish with crema al limone (lemon crème brûlée).

18 | FORBES SEPTEMBER 30, 2018