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90     Histories of City and State in the Persian Gulf

              Even a trader of modest means such as Ahmad ibn ‘Abd al-Rahman
              al-Sahhaf, who died around 1915, owned his own shop and was related
              to the most powerful Hawala families of Manama (including Kanu, al-
              Mutawwa‘ and al-Mahmid) through numerous marriages. 38
                The Sunni court presided over by the qadi Qasim al-Mahzah was also
              a key player in the politics of real estate of early twentieth-century
              Manama. During his long tenure of office the judge, who supervised
              awqaf properties and acted as the official muhtasib (market regulator
              according to Islamic law), was instrumental in protecting the land regime
              and the interests of the Al Khalifah. As the milk brother of the ruler, he
              also came to enjoy the rights and privileges of the royal household and
              became the largest owner of property in central Manama after Shaykh ‘Isa.
              Examples of real estate turned to public use also suggest that Sunnis
              continued to have privileged access to the markets. Unlike in the residen-
              tial districts of Manama, Shi‘i merchants were unable to establish reli-
              gious or community institutions. The mosques, for instance, were strictly
              supported by endowments under awqaf al-sunnah the largest was built by
              ‘Abd al-‘Aziz Lutf ‘Ali Khunji, a rich Persian merchant from Lingah,
              between 1910 and 1912. 39


                     Urban quarters
              Multiple traditions of settlement supported the unregulated and often
              random growth of Manama, whose harbour economy sustained the
              expansion of its population from an estimated 8,000 inhabitants in the
              early 1860s to approximately 25,000 in 1904. Earlier accounts concen-
              trate on the harbour and the central markets, and make only occasional
              references to the residential districts. In 1862, Palgrave reported an
              impoverished town whose landscape was dominated by barastiswith
              only a few dilapidated stone buildings. 40  At the turn of the century
              Lorimer described Manama as ‘damp, squalid and depressing … the
              habitations in the outskirts are for the most part huts with sloping roofs
              standing in courtyards surrounded by hurdles of upright date fronds.’ The

              38
                File n. 49, IT; Bushehri, ‘al-Manamah al-qadimah’.
              39
                Tasjil Idarah al-Tabu (land registration document) n. 288/367 of 1345 (1926–7), BA.
                I‘lanat Tabu al-Bahrayn,I‘lan n. 303 of 1360, April 1941, Da’irah al-Shu’un al-
                Qanuniyyah (Directorate of Legal Affairs, hereafter DSQ). al-Nabhani, al-Tuhfah al-
                Nabhaniyyah, p. 46. After 1883 the oldest mosque on record, Muhammad ibn Jum‘an,
                was partly supported by the properties of the Bashmi family, the largest rice importers of
                Manama. Wasiyyah waqf ahli (family waqf will), Safar 1293/February–March 1876;
                waqfiyyah (certificate of endowment), Rabi‘ al-Awwali 1300/January–February 1883,
                BA; interview with Ibrahim Bashmi, Manama, 18 March 2004.
              40
                Palgrave, Narrative of a Year’s Journey, vol. II, pp. 208–9.
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