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referred to as ‘Bclgravc’s "fancy” and when people went to the bazaar
                                                                                                                                                 to buy materials some old Arab in a hole-in-the-wall shop would call out
                                                                                                                                                 to them telling them what Mrs So-and-So had bought. The final chorus
                                                                                                                                                 of the pantomime was always the same, with different topical verses each
                                                                                                                                                 year; sung to the tune of‘Much Binding in the Marsh’, a wartime B.B.C.
                                                                                                                                       -i;  ■    favourite; it went as follows;
                                                                                                                                       wit
                                                                                                                        .
                                                                                                                                                            On Bahrain Island in the Gulf
                                                                                                                                                            On every New Year’s Eve there is a party.
                                                                                                                                                            On Bahrain Island in die Gulf
                                                                                                                                    A;'---
                                                                                                                       ‘r •   ’• ' •,   ‘ • ■ 1   -         The food is grand, the guests all gay and hearty.
                                                                                                                                                            And after dinner all the folks arc seated, line on line,
                                                                                                                                -V  ;.v,                    To watch and be amused by dais delightful pantomime,
                                                                                                                                 m*                         The acting in it’s awful, but die scenery’s divine,
                                                                                                                                                            In Bahrain Island in the Gulf.
                                                                                                                                :r'M
                                                                                                                                        ■'V. •’
                                                                                                                             ■V:
                                                                                                                                                    On New Year’s morning there were more callers but this was an
                                                                                  *■              'W
                                                                                                                                                  official affair and I received them on the veranda, feeling rather tight—
                                                                                                 .
                                                                             _____ _                                                              sartorially, not alcoholically—wearing my grey morning coat, made in
                                                                                                                                                  1932 which I still wore in 1957. Some of the Arabs who knew us well
                                                                            Shore near Manama, where the ancient capital of Bahrain,              went into the house to ‘wish’ Maijorie, who did not appear on this
                                                                                        2000 B.c., is being excavated                             occasion. With the Shaikh and liis relations I then proceeded to the
                                                                                                                                                  Political Agency, next door, to pay an official call, then I drove with the
                                                                                         My house on Jidda Island
                                                                                                                                                  Shaikh to a Reception at the Residency at Jufair, three miles beyond the
                                                                                                                                                  town, going slowly to enable the mounted escort to keep up. Everybody
                                                                                                                                                  who had called on the Resident was invited to the annual Reception so
                                                                                                                                                  there were usually about 600 people. Many of them showed signs of its
                                                                                                                                                  being ‘the morning after the night before’. It was strange to see so many
                                                                                                                                                  people wearing dark glasses—irrespective of whether the sun was shining
                                                                                                                                                  or not!
                                                                                                                   Pig]
                                                                                                                 ■vg                                 On New Year’s Day there was another celebration. The manumitted
                                                                                                                                                  slaves and their descendants demonstrated their gratitude for their
                                                                                                                 -5,-'                            freedom. They collected in front of the Political Agency and in my
                                                                                                                                                  compound and sang and danced. Some of them were old men and women
                                                                                                                                                  who had escaped from slavery many years ago, others had been manu­
                                                                                                                                                  mitted more recently, for until a few years ago slavery existed in Qatar
                                                                                                                                                 . and in parts of the Trucial Coast. Their dances and music were typically
                                                                                                                                                  African, and as I watched them I could imagine myself back in Tan­
                                                                                                                                                  ganyika or the Sudan. They danced to the sound of drums, cymbals and
                                                                                                                                                  horns. One man wore a leather kilt on which were hung hundreds of
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