Page 84 - Life of Gertrude Bell
P. 84

7*                     GERTRUDE BELL
                 unconfined. In August she told Florence, *1 am established for a
                  day or two in this enchanting spot (Roscnlaui in the Obcrland),
                 having been driven out of the higher mountains by a heavy snow-
                 fall on Monday, which renders the big things impossible ... Here
                 there is a fascinating little rock range, which can be done in
                 almost any weather.’ Before tackling those fascinating little
                 rocks she met an English family and they spent a lively afternoon
                 playing cricket to the amusement of their European companions,
                 with fir-tree branches for stumps, and large butterfly nets handy
                 to fish out the balls when they went into the river. Early in
                  September she wrote to her father from the same area:

                    I am now going to give you a history of my adventures.
                    Friday: we set out before dawn, the mists lying low every­
                    where ... We cast round and finally decided on a place where
                    the rock wall was extremely smooth, but worn by a number of
                    tiny water channels. These gave one a sort of handhold and
                    foothold. Just after we started it began to snow a little. The
                    first ioo feet were very difficult and took us three-quarters of
                    an hour. The rock was excessively smooth and in one place
                    there was a wall some 6 ft high where Ulrich had to stand on
                    Heinrich’s shoulder. Above this ioo feet it went comparatively   I
                    easily and in an hour we found ourselves in a delightful cave,
                    so deep that it sheltered us from the rain and sleet... Here we
                    breakfasted ... The next bit was easy ... but presendy we
                    found ourselves on the wrong side of a smooth arete which
                    gave us no hold at all. We came down a bit, found a possible
                    traverse and got over with some difficulty ... We know that
                    neither the N. nor the S. side of the Gemse Sattel, as we have
                    called it, has been done. Indeed the S. side may be impossible,
                    but I don’t think it is ... the experts may be mistaken.

                 Two days later, after being held up by snowfalls they tackled
                 another peak, the Klein Engelhorn. ‘It looked most encouraging,
                 the lower third was composed of quite smooth perpendicular
                 rocks.’ They completed a difficult traverse to take them above
                 smooth and precipitous rocks and ‘here we were on an awfully
  ! i
                 steep place under the overhanging place’. First Ulrich tried to
                 climb up the overhang by standing on Heinrich’s shoulders.
                 Then Gertrude clambered up on to Heinrich and Ulrich on to
                 Gertrude. Tt wasn’t high enough! I lifted myself still a little
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