Page 136 - The Pirate Coast (By Sir Charles Belgrave)
P. 136

served in European style, at a table provided with plates, knives
                    and forks, the guests sat on chairs. Shaikh Abdul Rasool must
                    have been very advanced, and familiar with Western ways, for
                    only thirty years ago, a meal served in European style would have
                    been most unusual in an Arab or Persian house in the Gulf. The
                    Shaikh sat on a chair at the side of the room, joining in the con­
                    versation, and giving orders to the servants, but not partaking of
                    the meal. Some old-fashioned Arabs still keep to this custom,
                    but today an Arab host usually sits and cats with his guests.
                      The menu included kabobs, stewed meats, chickens with rich
                    fruit sauce, and a roast kid stuffed with peaches, nuts and rice.
                    For dessert, there were figs, green almonds, and many kinds of
                    preserved fruits. The beverages consisted of different kinds of
                    sherbets, one was made from the seed of a species of willow,
                    ‘which gave it a most delicious flavour’, and red and white Shiraz
                    wine.  Sir Robert Ker Foster, who travelled in Persia at this time,
                    says that the wine was manufactured in secret by Armenians, and
                    that ‘when good it should be a little sweet, with the flavour of dry
                    Madeira*. Loch says that the red Shiraz wine was from the same
                    vineyards which supplied the vines which were imported to
                    Constantia, at the Cape of Good Hope, which produce the finest
                    South African wine.
                      The Shaikh sat smoking and talking during the meal, but every
                    now and then he left the room, ‘for the purpose of taking some
                    deep draughts of his favourite Shirazi, which was evident on his
                    return, for his intoxication was apparent*. Musicians played and
                    sang during dinner, one of their drums was ‘not unlike, in size and
                    shape, the fig drum of Smyrna*, others were made from coconut
                    shells covered in parchment. Loch had no appreciation of ‘the
                    uncouth sounds’ of Oriental music. The party ended with fire­
                    works, ‘which were but a poor display’, although the Bushiris
                    thought them ‘exceedingly grand.... We returned in the even­
                    ing to the Residency, very much pleased with our entertainment,
                    the Shaikh appearing no less so.’
                      One of the principal exports from Bushirc was horses: they
                    were  raised on the plains of Kazaroon, and were a cross-breed of
                    Arab and Turkoman stock. Many of the more wealthy Persians
                    in the neighbourhood of Bushirc were engaged in breeding and
                    trading in horses. Loch often watched them being shipped from
                    Bushire, and he noticed the cruel manner in which they were
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