Page 66 - The Pirate Coast (By Sir Charles Belgrave)
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different families occupying each floor. From outside, they were
imposing buildings, ‘but misery and filth prevailed within’. While
he was in Cochin, Loch went to see a neighbouring village, in
habited entirely by Jews, of which there were several thousands.
Tavanier, in 1678, described Cochin itself as ‘in old times a Re
public of Jews’, of the tribe of Manasseh. Another traveller
remarked on the striking similarity of the features of the inhabi
tants, who looked as if they all belonged to one family. Loch
says that thejews in this village retained the manners and customs
of their race, never marrying out of the tribe, and having their
own laws as far as was consistent with the government of the
country. Loch produces a lengthy argument, by which he en
deavours to prove that this Jewish settlement had been established
on the Malabar coast since the time of Solomon, and that they
used to trade with Hyram, King of Tyre.
When Loch went to the village, a wedding was being celebrated.
‘I witnessed, on the evening previous to the marriage of one of the
young ladies, the dance which is given on such occasions, which
is performed by a number of young females, the bride, of course,
being the principal. All were drest in Jewish fashion, and loaded
with jewels. Each lady took the other by the hand, going round
in a circle, every now and then making a spring, and a sort of cut
with the feet. At times they threw their bodies and arms into
attitudes far from inelegant. The muslin dresses which they wore
were very beautiful, each had a long scarf, one end over the left
shoulder, and the other end falling in graceful, natural folds over
the body. The men were remarkably good looking, their com
plexions were no darker than European Jews, and the girls were
very pretty.’
The next port of call was Goa, which was reached on Novem
ber 20th. The Eden anchored inside the entrance of the harbour
which was strikingly beautiful. On the high ground surrounding
the water, there were forts, barracks, churches and country houses,
the white buildings stood out against a background of green gar
dens and vegetation. Some Carmelite friars came on board the
ship as soon as she had anchored, bringing presents of fruit and
vegetables and asking for alms. Loch, who seems to have had a
certain antipathy towards Roman Catholics, says, rather grud-
gingly that the friars, ‘having received their gratuity, departed
leaving us their prayers and blessings, which I really believe to
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