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132 BIBBRIBARAURERROGRRSUISATRAZRA

Brae

Devo goes really well with Dom Pérignon’s                   a bit. I need no third-party encouragement and quickly
              2004 Rosé. We found this out prior to dinner  got into my stride with a 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
              while we whiled away an hour or two in the    Saint-Aubin 1er Cru 'Les Perrières'. The wine list here
              outstanding guest rooms at Brae. There’s a    has a fair few under-sulphured orange things on it. This
turntable in each room with an eclectic offering of vinyl   PY-CM has enough sulphur for all of them and I love
and, as the flower-potted-head musos were ‘whipping         it. The nose is all struck match and green melon. The
it’, a frenzy of bubbles whipped up in our glasses and      palate is tight and compact with a steely mineral spine.
delivered an aroma and flavour hit of exquisite red         The wine takes time to unravel and shows delicate floral
berry fruits, wheaten biscuit and fresh hay. With air,      and white-peach notes. It was terrific with almost all of
you get whiffs of jasmine tea and the palate is strong      the first half of the tasting menu.
with a graphite edge. It has great power and finesse.
After playing the A side of Nick Cave and The Bad           Brae is a paddock-to-plate establishment, growing
Seed’s ‘Boatman’s Call’, we shuffled across to the          a lot of the food they serve. The starter of asparagus
restaurant for a splendid meal.                             was almost porch to plate as it is grown a mere
                                                            drop punt from where we were sitting. The spears
We were greeted by a friendly chap who told us that we      were undercooked to maintain crunch and served
didn’t have to drive home so we could let our hair down     with quality olive oil and rosemary flowers. An

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