Page 3 - Brae

134 BIBBRIBARAURERROGRRSUISATRAZRA blue-fruit profile that I associate with Clos de la Roche but a
deep, chunky and powerful palate that screamed Vougeot.
Raw pea It was spicy and balanced and back-lit by the vintage’s
and lemon electric acidity.
Aspen tart
A small bowl with a crystalline broth housed pieces of fresh
Smoked calamari, blacklip abalone and blue mackerel. There were
eel tiny cubes of something that tasted of root vegetables but
churros was, in fact, the base of a broccoli stalk. It was a cerebral
dish of delicacy, texture and perfect balance. The next dish
Bone marrow was a triumph of the sum of its parts. Separately, eggplant
beetroot over and saltgrass lamb washed with sweet onion juice was nice.
smoked juniper But get them together and throw in some fragrant leaves,
high in acidity and you have a dish of great harmony.
King George whiting was simply cooked and served with
puréed broad beans. Charred leek accompanied. Crayfish
with shiitake, egg yolk and various seaweeds came with
an intense meat broth. The shiitake was right on the cusp
where it becomes too astringent but just stopped short,
fortunately, as the dish still paired amiably with the red
Burg. The final protein dish was splendid. Aged Pekin
duck was wood roasted. It had been stuffed with hay and
the fat-laden hay later ignited to gently smoke the meat.
The meat was so silky and had fabulous gamey flavour. It
was served with quandong and young garlic. The house
bread deserves special mention. Flour is milled on site
and the bread cooked in their own wood oven. It is a rich,
flavoursome loaf with plenty of charring of the crust. Butter
is also churned on site and is light and fluffy and retains
outstanding acidity to counter the creamy richness.

The playlist at this restaurant is seriously good. I’m only
saying this as nearly every song played is on my playlist.
The dessert of mandarin simmered with vanilla and sheep’s
milk was accompanied by P.J Harvey. This dessert was
essentially a very savoury dish, sweetened only by a drizzle
of Brae farm honey. I like Streets Cornettos and chef’s
take here is to make the cone out of a hollowed-out dried
parsnip. It is filled with cream and cured apple. It really is
very tasty.

Our wonderful meal came to a close with a ball of sweet
and savoury loveliness. It was an amalgam of rhubarb,
pistachio, pig’s blood and preserved blackberry. It wasn’t
dry or chewy but you involuntarily chew for a long time
before swallowing. I guess there would be those who would
voluntarily choose to not partake but they’d be missing out
as it is a treat.

It is a good thing that the sound system back in the room
is governed at a lowish noise level. I was full of beans and
keen to amp up James Brown Live at The Apollo. You’ll
feel good too if you dine here. It is one of Australia’s best
restaurants. Maybe even its best.

Brae Restaurant

4285 Cape Otway Rd, Birregurra VIC 3242

Ph: +613 5236 2226

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