Page 11 - repast 8_WEB

CHAMPAGNE 9

Oysters, not grilled La Grillade
Gourmande

The opportunity to wedge in a quick meal at La
Grillade presented itself and we embraced it with
vigour. It was decided that we would just have
a main course and one bottle of wine. After an
entrée, main and two bottles of wine, we left fully satisfied.
As the name suggests, things that have been grilled are de
rigueur here. There’s a hearth in the middle of the dining
room and chef vacillates between caramelising meat
proteins and pressing the flesh with his ebullient tableside
manner.
Champagne is the strong suit on the list and we thought it
might be a good idea to roadtest the recently released 2006
Dom Perignon. It was immediately expressive with whiffs
of toast, custard apple and lemon. Packed and stacked and
not ready to play yet, although its class is evident. Half a
dozen freshly shucked Fine de Claire No.3 oysters were just
the thing with the fizz. We had a large meal planned that
night, so Colin was keeping his powder dry. He only had a
large slab of house made foie gras terrine as a starter.
Côte de Bœuf was cooked perfectly to order and, while it
was as sinewy as Iggy Pop, the flavour was exceptional. A
cheeky luncheon claret generally loosens any toughness in
steak, or at least distracts you from it, and a 2007 Ormes de
Pez was called into play. It had a core of blackberry fruit.
There was some cedar and tobacco as well. It was round and
creamy with just enough grip.
While coffee was not good, service was excellent, and we
shall return.

La Grillade Gourmande
16 Rue de Reims, 51200 Épernay, France
Ph: +33 3 26 55 44 22

Côte de Bœuf was
cooked perfectly to order
and, while it was as
sinewy as Iggy Pop, the
flavour was exceptional.

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