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BURGUNDY 73

Chez Guy

Monday lunch options can be tricky in Burgundy Quality farm-
but Chez Guy is always a good fallback. They run raised chicken
a little bottle shop next door, so Colin and I loaded
up on a mixed case for home drinkies before with morilles
sitting down in the restaurant for a leisurely lunch between sauce and
visits.
creamy mash
Being in Gevrey, it would have been nice to support a local
but the siren call of a Coche at a good price was just too much.
The 2013 Coche Dury Meursault was a lot more open knit
and expressive than the Chevalières the day before. This had
pungent minerality, some honeysuckle and exquisite peach
fruit. It was chalky and dense in the mouth with real latent
power. The finish was loaded with dry extract.

Having come off a pretty big weekend on the fang, we all
intended to have just one course. The mere sight of a Berkel
slicer in the restaurant and a listing of Iberico ham on the menu
put paid to that idea. The ham was wonderful and came with
warm baguettes and fresh butter so you could make your own
bread roll of loveliness.

Main course, of which we only had one of each, was a
magnificent suprême de volaille. Quality farm- raised
chicken came in a pool of rich morilles-infused gravy. The
accompanying mashed potato was supremely silky and
couldn’t soak up any more juice as it was butter-logged.

The wine list here is outstanding and there are some bargains
to be had. A 2010 Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny was
still very youthful but deeply satisfying. With a heart of black
cherry, there were notes of violets and freshly-tilled earth. It is
dense and sappy and acts like a good 1er Cru.

I could have managed dessert but showed remarkable restraint.
I had a coffee, hoovered up three petit fours, then hit the road.

Chez Guy

3 Place de la Mairie, 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin, France

Ph: +33 3 80 58 51 51

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