Page 31 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

In a sport climbing context, this knot (figure 8 on a
bight with two locking carabiners) wastes carabiners,
and it jangles around as I lead. I can’t COPE with this
knot in this context.

For visual clarity, I can create a mental picture of
my figure 8 follow through; Derek and I use this knot
all the time when we work together with climbing
students. The bowline has a lot of variations that never
have the same kind of symmetry.
Given my evaluations of the pros and cons, the
figure 8 follow through emerges as my best option. It’s
time to climb, but remember, this is an Experiment.
Throughout the use of this knot, I want to be sure
that my reasoning is sound.

18 CLIMBING: KNOTS