Page 125 - Rappelling

the sling. I prefer to use a fat nylon sling (18mm Rigging for Contingencies
or ⁄16-inch width) over a thin (10mm) Dyneema In my climbing school we always belay novices on
11
sling for this application because nylon has a higher a separate rope when they are learning to rappel. A
melting point. If the rappel rope is running across good system (I teach it in the AMGA Single Pitch
the sling, it could potentially create some heat due Instructor Course) anticipates any potential prob-
to the friction, which could damage the sling and lems that may occur during a rappel and uses a rig-
reduce its breaking strength in later applications. ging system that is ready to remedy any problem.
For anyone who weighs under about 125 The system uses a two-rope method: One rope
pounds, using an autoblock backup below the is the rappel line, the other is the belay line. If the
device on a double-rope rappel may create too length of the rappel is less than half the rope length,
much friction, regardless of the device, so using the the system can be rigged with a single rope, using
“old-school” technique of the prusik above the one end tied to the belayer. The other end goes to
device may be the only solution and is perfectly the ground. If the rappel is more than half a rope
valid as a backup. Just be sure to rig the prusik so length, two ropes are required. The rappel rope is
that if it tightens, you can still reach up and touch it. attached to the anchor with a Munter/mule combi-
Also, you should carry another prusik and sling and nation, which is releasable under tension. The rap-
know basic self-rescue (see Prusiking in chapter 9) peller is tied into the belay rope and belayed on a
in case the prusik grabs and you need to get your- direct belay with a Munter hitch off the anchor.
self out of a jam. If the rappeller encounters a problem (like long
hair or clothing stuck in the rappel device or a knot
Teaching Rappelling in the rappel rope), they can’t continue. To fix the
problem, you would do the following:
Site Selection 1. Tie off the Munter on the belay line with a
Site selection is important to teach rappelling tech- mule knot and overhand backup.
nique to a novice. Select a site that has a comfort- 2. Release the mule knot on the rappel line and
able, flat area on top without a drastic transition give the rappeller some slack.
from the horizontal to the vertical. The ideal site 3. Have the rappeller fix the problem (e.g., take
should have a high master point for the rappel and the hair out of the device).
belay anchor, a flat “desktop” area that extends at
least 10 feet back from the edge of the cliff, and a 4. Re-tie the mule knot with overhand backup.
rounded, gradual edge for a comfortable transition 5. Release the mule knot on the belay line and
to a wall that is angled slightly less than vertical. The continue belaying the rappel.
wall should be free of loose rock and uniformly flat, (continued on page 118)
not riddled with cracks, and without corners or
overhangs. The base should have a nice flat landing
area without boulders, bushes, or trees.

A student practices use of the autoblock on an
instructor-belayed rappel, Joshua Tree National
Park, California.

114 RAPPELLING

Rappelling_i-174_3pp_CS55le.indd 114 7/24/13 10:17 AM