Page 132 - Rappelling

chapter six

Rappelling Methods for Climbing

Multipitch Rappels friction from the rope being pulled over the sling
created enough heat to melt it slightly, and its
If you’re descending a big cliff that is higher than strength will be severely compromised.
the length of a single rappel, you’ll need to do a Whenever you’re not tied in to the climbing
multipitch rappel. Climbers use multipitch rappel- rope, always protect yourself by tethering to the
ling techniques to descend from long routes, nor-
mally with two ropes tied together, allowing them
to descend the length of a standard rope (60 or 70
meters) on each rappel.
The first thing to check on a multipitch rap-
pel is the condition and soundness of the anchor,
as in most cases the rigging will already be in place,
having been left by a previous climbing team. The
most common anchors will be two bolts, a single
tree, or a solid, wedged block of rock. If I know I’ll
be descending a long route via multiple rappels, I’ll
bring extra nylon webbing, rap rings, and a knife,
in case I need to cut away a nest of old slings and
re-rig an anchor. On obscure climbs in Yosemite,
I’ve come across old nylon webbing bleached pure
white by the sun, only to flip it over and find the
other side bright red. Over time UV exposure will
weaken nylon and Dyneema/Spectra webbing,
so carefully inspect any existing slings you might
decide to use. If the sling is stiff and the color faded
from UV exposure, it has probably lost a major-
ity of its strength. Also, if the sling shows a burned
(blackened) or glazed mark where a rope has been
pulled across it, the sling should be retired, as the

Dave Nettle rappels down the Angel’s Wings, Tether comparison. Left to right: Sterling Chain
Sequoia National Park, California. Reactor, Metolius PAS, Black Diamond Daisy
Pho t o b y Gre G ePPerson Chain.

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