Page 149 - Rappelling

A “tensionless anchor” rigged by simply wrapping the rope around the tree trunk several times
and tying a figure eight loop that is clipped back into the load strand with a locking carabiner. This
rigging method is favored by cavers, since the rappel line is fixed and will be used for ascending
when disembarking from the pit. Barring any sharp edges that could cut the rope, and discounting
any tree under 4 inches in diameter, this is probably the strongest way to rig a tree anchor, since
the knot at the end is not under tension.

Rope Protectors overhanging wall, then retreated to gather them-
selves for another attempt, leaving two ropes tied
In the summer of 1978, Chris Robbins, a promis- together as a fixed line. When they returned, Chris
ing young climber from Southern California, was went first and began the arduous, 400-foot free-
attempting an early repeat ascent of El Capitan’s hanging jumar back up to their high point. Unbe-
Tangerine Trip route in Yosemite. Chris and his knownst to Chris, the rope was slowly sawing back
partner had climbed partway up the immense, and forth over the edge of an overhang, and with

138 RAPPELLING

Rappelling_i-174_3pp_CS55le.indd 138 7/24/13 10:18 AM