Page 39 - D. Raleigh "Knots and ropes for climbers"

The Carabiner Wrap looks dubious but is nevertheless useful to climbers. This simple method of
wrapping the rope around a carabiner's spine lets you rappel a single rope of most any diameter. I've
even used it to rappel 7-millimeter cord. Adding to its beauty in dire situations, the Carabiner Wrap
requires only one carabiner.

Carabiner Wrap.

The Carabiner Wrap doesn't need much explaining, and common sense will tell you that you can add
wraps to increase friction or remove wraps to decrease friction. Make sure the wraps go on the
carabiner's solid spine, use a locking carabiner if available, and don't let the knot twist up into itself or
invert.

Common Use
Emergency rappel

Mule Knot

The Mule Knot is a friction knot that you can release while it's under load, although it can take some
fiddling to do so. It's one of those special knots you'll rarely use but will praise when you do.

Use the Mule Knot to tie off your belay device and free your hands, as you'll need to do when the
leader has fallen and is injured, and you need both hands to facilitate a rescue. In everyday situations,
you can use the Mule Knot to temporarily tie off the belay and pass up gear to the leader, eat, tend to
calls of nature, and so on. In all situations, clip a carabiner through the Mule Knot to prevent it from
accidentally slipping. If you don't have a carabiner, use the standing portion of the Mule Knot to tie an
Overhand backup around the active (loaded) side of the rope. Also, don't forget to pass the initial loop
of the Mule Knot through your belay carabiner.

To release the Mule Knot, unclip the backup carabiner or untie the backup Overhand, and pull on the
standing (unloaded) side of the knot.

Common Use
Tying off lead rope to free your hands