Page 8 - D. Raleigh "Knots and ropes for climbers"

Munter Hitch.

Prusik Knot.
4. Knots

You could make a life's work out of studying knots, as there are some thirty-nine hundred recorded.
Fortunately, climbers need bother with only thirty-five, and that's not as bad as it sounds. Only
nineteen are independent designs; the remaining sixteen are variations.

What follows are those knots and how-to illustrations. For most knots, common uses and secondary
uses are given. The common uses are the ones the knots excel at. The secondary uses are those that
will get you by, although I'd avoid them when possible, as there is nearly always a better knot for the
job.

Overhand

The simple Overhand is probably among the first knots you learned as a child. It has a nostalgic
appeal, but for climbing it is of minor value. Many climbers put it in the end of the belay rope to
prevent dropping the leader should the rope's tail sneak up and try to slip through the belay device. For
this use it's fine, as it's quick to tie even with one hand.