Page 198 - Bonhams Asian Art May2016 UK

THE LEFEBVRE COLLECTION OF CHINESE ROBES

LOTS 489-501

This collection of Royal women’s dress from the Imperial Court of the
Qing dynasty were gathered from sources that spanned both Asia and
the West.

Women’s dress at the Qing court was elaborate, ethereal and elegant.
Wonderful garments were created through the ingenious adaptation of
the newly-introduced vibrant dyes from the West to the delicate hues
of the vegetable dyes already available in the East. The dazzling flowers
and symbols decorating these costumes were imbued with auspicious
symbolism that conveyed the cultural values and aspirations of their
wearer, such as longevity, success and fertility.

Women became butterflies shimmering amongst the heavenly gardens
of the palaces, embodying cherry blossoms, prunus, peony and
chrysanthemum flowers that symbolised the Four Seasons. The changyi
or changfu informal dresses included in this collection were worn in
occasion of festivities such as court rituals, seasonal changes, birthdays
and New Year celebrations. One such festivity includes the Double Ninth
Festival, considered auspicious because of the homophonic nature of
the number nine with the word ‘forever’. On this occasion, women wore
chrysanthemum blooms in their hairs and on their garments as they
attended a ceremony that paid homage to their ancestors.

The Institute of Indulgences, Ruyi guan, 如意館, designed the courtly
garments through the creation of painted templates that conformed
to the court regulations, Huangchao liqi tushi, 皇朝禮器圖示, or the
fashion style of the moment as it was selected by the Empress of the
imperial court. The templates were then sent to the imperial workshops
of Suzhou for the production of the finest satin stich or to Nanjing for
the weaving. The workshops worked long hours and often men were
the most accomplished embroiderers. Time and precision, elaborate
designs, silk threads of exquisite quality and dyes of spectacular
colours, showed the power and beauty of the ‘butterfly’ courtesans of
the Qing court.

Women’s dress provides a rare insight into the romance and secret court
life of the royal ladies, ‘a rare chance to peep behind the silk curtain of
the court’ and own an important aspect of Chinese history.

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