Page 25 - Router Boss Manual

Cut the sockets
With the cursor or DRO settings written down, we
can go ahead and cut the sockets. We’ll also use the
same settings later when we cut the pins.

If the drawer front and back are the same thick-
ness, you can cut the sockets in both side pieces at the
same time, but you need to take care to keep the pieces
properly oriented using the caret marks you made ear-
lier. Stack the two side pieces so the caret marks are on
the fixed-fence side and pointing toward the machine Orient the two side
face. The boards should be butted against the bottom of pieces so the “A”
the base plate and against the face of the machine. and “C” ends are
together and the caret
marks are on the same
Depth the dovetail bit side. Clamp the pieces
against the stock and lock it in the Router Boss so the
in place. Use either the front marks point toward the sliding
or back piece as appropri- bar and are against the fixed fence.
ate to set the depth stop so
you’ll cut the sockets the
proper depth. (Inserting a
business card will let the
socket board pins stand just
proud of the surface of the ends so you can sand them
flush with the exposed face of the end piece.)

Turn the crank to set the cursor (or digital readout)
back to the first setting -- 6/32” . Slide the router plate
back to the rear stop, plunge and lock the bit, making
sure the bit is clear of the stock. Then holding onto the
router, turn the router on and slowly pull it forward to
make the first half socket cut. Turn the router off, but
leave the bit down and in front of the stock.

Turn the crank handle to the second setting (1”),
then start the router and push it slowly back through
the stock. Then repeat these steps to make the remain-
ing three cuts. (As you get more familiar with how the
Router Boss operates, you can leave the router on as
you move the stock between cuts.)
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