Page 48 - Router Boss Manual

With the stops set to cut the cheeks, use the gauge
bars to set the router depth stop to the exact length you
want the tenon to be (3/4” in our case). Turn the crank
to move the workpiece to the left of the bit, plunge the
router and lock it in place. Move the router stop rod to
the outer (closest to you) stop, then tighten the router
plate lock knob. Turn the router on, then slowly feed the
stock into the bit.

CAUTION: Be observant of the position of the
bit in relation to the tenoning cutout in the mortise
table to avoid cutting into the aluminum table.

When you’ve cut the front cheek, move the bit
clear of the stock, loosen the router plate locking knob
and slide the router so the stop rod fits against the inner
(furthest from you) stop, tighten the plate lock knob,
then turn the crank slowly to make the rear cheek cut.

Using a gauge bar, raise the bit 1/4”, and tighten
the router plunge lock (but don’t reset the depth stop).
Loosen the router locking knob, reposition the router
and use the crank handle to nibble away stock to cut a
haunch in the tenon to the proper width.

Check the fit of the tenon in the mortise, and also
make sure the sides of the rails and stiles are flush. You
can use the micro-adjustment barrels on the precision
stops to fine-tune the fit. When you’re satisfied with
the fit of the tenon, use the stops and repeat the steps
to make the cheek cuts in all your rails. When you cut
the tenons on the opposite end of a rail, cartwheel the
workpiece end-for-end so the same face (with the “X”
index mark) butts against the table. Then repeat the
cheek cutting steps for the other end of the rail.

We’ll show you how to make raised panels shortly,
but first, we want to show you a couple of variations
of this technique that demonstrate the versatility of the
Router Boss.

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