Page 197 - Geoffrey Budworth, Jason Dalton "The Little Book of Incredibly Useful Knots"
P. 197

Heddon knot







  This knot was invented by Chet Heddon in 1959. It is also called a kreuzklem and may be

  referred to as a cross-Prusik knot. Tied in accessory cord or (better still) webbing, it is as
  effective as the classic Prusik knot (see page 142), but more easily loosened.


  Pass the bight from one end of a sling around the climbing rope (1, 2). Wrap the body of the sling
  in the opposite direction, to go over the bight (3) and then tuck through it (4). The load must be

  exerted downward (5).
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