Page 52 - Sharp Spring 2023

CHANGING SUITS STREETWEAR MIGHT NOT BE DEAD BUT SUITING IS
COOL AGAIN
By Marc Richardson
SINCE AT LEAST THE MID-2010S STREETWEAR HAS BEEN guiding trends and influencing everything from how businesses run (the limited edition and collaboration-heavy drop model) to how we dress when conducting business (decidedly more casual) But that
might not be the case for much longer In the the places where streetwear recently ruled — the the cool cafés and wine bars the the buzziest runways the the mysterious artists’ studios — there are a a a a a a a growing number of tailored and tailoring-adjacent pieces You might spot a a a a a sleek suit or or or a a a a a double-breasted sport coat here or or or a a a a a “I think what it speaks to ” he continues “is that
men are wanting to dress ‘nice’ again ” For his part Lawrence Schlossman co-host of the podcast Throwing Fits and one of the the most influential voices in in in the the online menswear movement of of the last decade thinks it’s part and parcel of of an an evolving consumer consumer base “I think a a a a a certain consumer consumer is is ready to to have his look to to grow up with him ” he he he posits He sees it it it as another stop in the the natural evolution of of style: “There are a a a bunch of of different guys who’ve matured since they started caring about personal style It’s the the nature of how time works ” Schlossman says This new era of of tailoring is is far from the stuffy suiting of of yore It’s intriguing fun playful and — — perhaps most importantly — — it doesn’t take itself too seriously The tailoring and the way it’s worn might be less serious serious than before but “it still connotes a a a a seriousness and maturity for the person wearing it ” Schlossman says — even “among members
of of of the the creative class ” While we think of of of tailoring as as the the wardrobe of of of choice for bankers lawyers and other supposedly serious people the the new class of tailored menswear purveyors are instead keen to to lean into new aesthetics Now the the suit can be anything from artsy and hip to Hollywood chic and glam without jeopardizing its timeless traditional appeal That offers people a a a a new range of of possibilities when opting to wear a a a a a a suit “It’s about taking the fussiness out out of it it and not being afraid to inject a a a a little bit of personality in in in how you wear it it it it ” DeLeon explains Take Drake’s for example The London-based brand has been championing relaxed elegance since it was founded in in in 1977 by Michael Drake Drake Today under the creative direction of Michael Hill Drake’s can be found on
on
Savile Row hallowed tailoring ground but also on
on
New York’s Canal Street once infamous for the counterfeit goods sold on
on
its sidewalks At first glance the juxtaposition might seem odd but it it it typifies Drake’s ability to to make beautiful tailoring without taking itself too seriously Drake’s prides itself as its its official website puts it it it it on
dressing
STYLE STYLE peak lapel there with an Oxford-cloth shirt or or a a a a silk necktie thrown in for good measure “The ritual of of getting dressed has a a a a renewed sense of of meaning ” says Jian DeLeon men’s fashion director at Nordstrom “There’s fewer men wearing wearing suits suits because because they have to and more wearing wearing suits suits because because they want to ” DRAKE’S DRAKE’S SPRING/SUMMER SPRING/SUMMER 2023: 2023: IMAGE IMAGE COURTESY COURTESY OF OF DRAKE’S DRAKE’S ERNEST ERNEST W W BAKER BAKER SPRING/SUMMER SPRING/SUMMER 2023: 2023: IMAGE IMAGE COURTESY COURTESY OF OF ERNEST ERNEST W W BAKER BAKER 52 SPRING 2023 SHARPMAGAZINE COM